3/11/07 - Sunday,
time for our Jill, Bill & Patti to catch their flight back to WI and for
Rand and Butch to come aboard. I'm sure Ruth will miss having the girls
aboard, as will I. The only bad part of their visit is that it was over
so fast. We forgot about daylight savings time until Rand came back from
shopping and mentioned people complaining . Bill, Jill & Patti almost
missed their plane!
We headed for Allan Cay to show the guys the
iguanas. We sailed the entire run averaging in the 7 knot range. We
caught a couple of Amberjacks while we were sailing (stopping a charging
sailboat to reel in a fish is no small trick). One was about 2-3 lbs and
the other 12-13 lbs. Sorry Bill. We arrived in time to anchor and put
together a tasty steak dinner.
3/12/07 - We went
to the beach to see the reptiles. They were a little scarce... probably
forgot to set their clocks ahead. We did get to see about a dozen before
we headed to Warderick Wells. 15-20 knot winds made for a 8-9 knot reach
under full genoa and a double reefed main. What a ride! As we passed
Norman Cay a fish hit. Time for our Chinese Fire Drill. While Rand
fought the fish Butch helped keep track of it, ready with the gaff. Ruth
and I furled the Genoa and tried to keep the boat slowed in the high
winds. The fishing reel kept falling apart and the guys had to
reassemble it while fighting the fish. We finally got it alongside,
learning we'd caught about 20# of pissed off Barracuda - 42" of fish
with nasty teeth. Took us a while to retrieve the lure and return the
fish to the sea. Smaller 'Cudas are good eating - not the big ones. By
4pm we were moored in the North Harbor at Warderick Wells - still
laughing at ourselves from the fishing experience. What an exciting day!
3/13/07 - 7am,
dawn and the wind is still whistling through the rigging like it was
last evening... has to be high teens. First project of the day is to get
the outboard running. We suspect water got in the fuel, rain through the
tank vent, fouling the plugs. Then we'll work on the fishing reel,
though it has provided many moments of hilarity as is.
Got the engine running, found the carburetor
drain and got the last of the water out. Butch, Rand and I hiked to Boo
Boo Hill for the fantastic harbor view. Ran into sailors from Milwaukee
and Frankfort, MI, on the beach along with people we'd met in Marathon.
Traded stories for a while and learned a lot about place to go and not
go. It's really fantastic what you can learn in these conversations.
Back to the boat where Ruthie was busy working... WIFI here, though S L
O W as it is a satellite relay.
Rand tried snorkeling a short swim from our
boat but the wind and waves made in hard on a first timer and the coral
wasn't as developed as the head the gang dove the week before. Still
interesting though.
3/14/07 - Another
windy night, gusts in the high 20's, we were snug on a park mooring
ball. Though we saw a few rain storms none of them affected us as we
sailed along at 8.2-9.5 knots to
Norman Cay. Arriving around noon we spent the afternoon reading,
exploring the ruins of the drug lair and checking out the plane ditched
in the harbor.
Butch and Ruth teamed up for a delicious meals
- ribs on a stick, garlic mashed potatoes and sweet corn kernels. I
think I'm gaining weight.
3/15/07 - Last
night the anchor watch (a gps feature that tells us if the boat has
moved outside a given circle) went off 4 times as the wind and tide
fought over AA. I finally enlarged the circle to get some uninterrupted
sleep. We headed out mid-morning for Hawksbill Cay, arriving at noon
where we found several mooring buoys in 7' of water after brushing
bottom a couple of times on our way in. Taking one we were
set for the night.
A short hike inland brought Rand , Ruth and I
to the ruins of a loyalist plantation established in the 1870's. Up to
10 families at a time lived there until the 90's. Hard to believe people
live over a 130 years on that barren hunk of rock. Their homes were
walls of stacked rock plastered inside and out with a cement made of
powdered conch shells and sand. Today these small (10' x 10' to 12' by
20') houses are in ruins. The last 4 families raised buttonwood, sisal
and some crops on every piece of tillable land within a day's sail. You
wonder what their daily lives were like.
Hawksbill's beaches are beautiful white sand,
reputedly some of the best beaches in the Exumas. Having walked them it
is easy to believe.
3/16/07 - Up at
dawn and headed back to Nassau. We motor sailed for a while, then put up
the big red gennaker for a couple of hours. As the wind switched we
dropped the gennaker and motor sailed the rest of the way to Nassau,
arriving at Nassau Harbor Club Marina about 3pm. Rand and Butch will be
leaving at dawn for their flight home.
3/17/07 - Up at
4:30 to shower and spend a little time with Butch & Rand before they
headed to the airport. Then Ruth & I went to the City Market and
provisioned for our next couple of weeks. We'll be working our way south
to the Exumas Park to work a couple of days, then start our journey
northwest to Miami. Today the winds are out of the west for a good ride.
We rode them to Norman Cay, electing to stay there the night as our
alternatives would have been too rough due to wave direction.
3/18/07 - We took
a down day and stayed in Norman Cay. Ruth and I both needed to relax.
read and enjoy the sun. Norman is pretty enough to spend several
days in so it was no tough choice.
Ruth acknowledged that cruising may not be for
her. I sensed it but didn't want to go there. The lack of success in
selling the house is putting a lot of pressure on her. She'll be heading
home as soon as we get to Miami to get our taxes done. I'll be taking
the boat north to sell?? We'll need to sort out what we'll each be
doing. I'll either need a job near home or a very small boat to live on.
3/19/07 - We
headed down to Warderick Wells again. I want to volunteer some time to
them as the park is a real treasure and needs all the help they can get.
We arrived mid-afternoon and went snorkeling. Afterward we showered...
Ruth screamed and jumped back out of the shower - we had a 3' snake in
the head (bathroom). I grabbed it with a set of salad tongs, carrying it
out the companionway while it held a toothbrush in it's tail. The
toothbrush was released just before I threw it overboard.
Supper was grilled chicken. I looked over the
stern to check the height of the dinghy above the water.
Surprise! The snake was back, curled on a step of the retracted boarding
ladder. I threw him away again and he tried to re-board. I finally had
to dissuade him with a boathook, forcing him to look elsewhere for a dry
spot. Supposedly no poisonous snakes on these keys - didn't test the
theory though.
3/20/07 - Our
snake visitor turned out to be a rare Bahamian Boa. Relatively harmless
unless you are a small rodent or bird. I'm not too sure how Buddy would
have faired. I worked about 4 hours for the park, disassembling and
rebuilding a drill press. Got it working to their great pleasure. The
weather is unsettled. The park reported gusts of 38 knots yesterday and
today was just as blustery as squalls marched through like marauding
Goths. Almost went for a swim when a gust took the dinghy airborne as I
returned to the boat this afternoon.
3/21/07 - I worked at
the park again today as Ruth used the WIFI connection to work on a
couple of opportunities she's been pursuing. Metalworking was the order
of the day as I made aluminum parts to reassemble a large frame for a
tent and made a panel for a new battery charger. The pool of retired
talents among the cruisers is phenomenal: carburetors, engines, pumps,
gensets, watermakers and signs were some of the projects being worked
on.
Later in the day a cruise ship, Grand
Mariner, anchored off our stern. It was a novelty for the park staff
- they seldom get boats this size. We'd seen the Grand Mariner
several times the past couple of years on the ICW and Great Lakes.
3/22/07 - Time to
head back to the USA. We started north at 10, headed for Shroud Cay. At
2pm we arrive, greeted by beautiful white birds with exceptionally long
tails. We dug out our books and determined they were Bosun Birds. The
blue of the water reflected on their undersides making them look light
blue. Shroud is a larger cay with saltwater creeks that can be explored,
taking you into the interior of this beautiful cay. Exploring these
waterways revealed palms, soft white sand beaches and a large barracuda.
Late afternoon brought a line of thunderstorms
with strong winds. We were glad AA was anchored snuggly in the
lee of the island. Showers throughout the night provided a needed fresh
water flush for the boat.
3/23/07 - Friday
morning, the winds and showers continue. We caught a weather report from
Highborne Cay at 7:30am - they expect this weather pattern to hold well
into next week. We need to work our way NW to position ourselves for
crossing to Miami. Around 10 we headed to Highborne as it was on the way
back. A squall caught us at noon, causing us to double reef the main and
furled 75% of the jib. The boat got a good bath. As we approached the
island Ruth caught another barracuda, a feisty 38 inch'er that tested
her stamina for 20 minutes. She had a blast playing it in. Arriving at
Highborne we anchored in the lee of the island and took the dinghy in to
do some grocery shopping... paying a dollar an ounce for potato chips.
We now have a better idea how to provision before we leave the states.
Rum is cheap, beer is expensive as are convenience foods and snacks. The
marina is beautiful, catering to boats up to 165 foot... several were
there.
3/24/07 - A
beautiful morning. We caught the Highborne Cay Marina weather forecast
at 7:30am (VHF weather forecasts here are rare). It looks like the 20
knot winds from the N to NE will be with us for several more days. We
can work our way toward the Gulf Stream but need SE to S winds to cross
it. It was time to change the engine oil - an hour's task by the time
everything is cleaned up and the engine thoroughly inspected. Found and
repaired a small leak at a hose clamp on the raw water cooling system.
A helicopter dropped into the marina today,
transferring guests from a large yacht. What some people have to put up
with. |