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7/21/05 - Ruth spent the morning working on the internet while I
went to the post office, exploring a little of Killarney enroute. The
village appears to be about the size of Dale or Medina, WI. It
definitely made its living from the lakes and water - lodges, boat
yards, docks and provisioning. About noon we headed out for the
14 mile jaunt down the 9 mile long Lansdowne Channel into Fraser Bay and
on to Baie Fine, our destination for the night. We are now in the "North
Channel". We motored the several mile length of the 1/4 - 1/2 mile wide
bay in water depths ranging from 50 to 8'. Shear cliffs and quartz
foothills, some approaching 600' high, bordered the water on both sides
- it was awesome. This area reminds me of Lake Tahoe.
At the end of the bay we entered a couple mile channel that was
only 100 yards wide. The channel opened to the Pool, a well known
cruising destination. There we anchored for the night. We took some time
to dinghy over and meet our new neighbors. Among them were a Beverly and
Dick, a couple who have spent the last 3 years doing the loop. They've
done the Florida to St Lawrence, Erie Canal, Lake Champaign portions and
are now working their way toward Chicago and the Midwestern waterway.
After grilling brats for supper we relaxed with our books and
watched the pool slip into evening while listening to the haunting calls
of a pair of loons. We're truly in the north woods!
7/22/05 - We were waken by loon
calls. I laid in the berth listening to them for a while before getting
up and starting the coffee. After breakfast we did a little exploring
with Bradd and Maeve in their dinghy. We started to motor up the creek
to Artistic Lake, quickly learning that we had to paddle. As we quietly
rounded a corner Ruth excitedly whispered "Moose, moose, moose!"
Unbelievably the stream was blocked by a large male moose. His huge
antlers were velvet covered and glistening with water as he was feeding
on underwater plants. We watched him for about 5 minutes as he ate while
keeping a watchful eye on us. Finally we drifted away so we could
retrieve our camera from the sailboats (yes, we'd left them aboard -
dumb & dumber go exploring). When we returned the moose was gone and we
had to settle for red squirrels and beaver dams. Artistic Lake proved to
be a small lake of lily pads and flowers in a settling of pink quartz
cliffs and pines. Nice photo op.
We returned to the boats, dropping off Ruth (the walk would have
done in her ankle) and picking up Beverly for a hike up to Topaz Lake. A
climb to the lake would be more accurate... it's several hundred feet
above the Pool. It was worth the climb. I'd try to describe the tall
pink and white quartz cliffs and the deep crystal clear lake but I'd
never do as well as the photos. We dove into the cool water. You could
see rocks on the bottom 30' below you. The rocks in the photo to the
right are 20' deep. We climbed higher to an outlook over the Pool and
photographed the boats 400' below us. What a great hike!
At 2pm we weighed anchor and head the 12 - 18 miles to Little
Current where we just made the 5pm bridge opening (the bridge opens
hourly). We stopped for a pump-out, water and fuel. We're going through
fresh water a little faster than normal thanks to a malfunction on the
safety valve on the water heater - it's a recurring issue, we're on our
third valve. We found a little pass behind Picnic Island and anchored
for the night at the outskirts of Little Current. Marinated pork chops
done on the grille made a fitting meal for closing a fantastic day.
7/23/05 - Ruth awoke excited, today
we head for the Benjamin Islands. We quickly exited our anchorage and
headed northwest along the North Channel. We had a great sail in 15-20
knot winds, tacking the 18 miles to Benjamin Islands. This was a "must
do" stop for Ruth; a visit to the islands bearing her maiden name. It's
also one of the most popular stops for North Channel cruisers due to the
many safe anchorages the island chain offers. The scene reminded me of
the crowds in the Virgin Islands. The only things missing were the
mooring balls and the native kid picking up the fees and your trash.
We dropped anchor about 2pm and went exploring. We had to check
out the Benjamin's. Basically they're rocks covered with lichen, stunted
firs and current bushes. We found some blackberries and numerous
blueberries; picking a container of blueberries for pancakes tomorrow.
We had trouble getting enough berries as they kept leaking into our
mouths... umm-umm! When climbing in the sun-baked rocks we kept our eyes
open for rattlesnakes as they like to warm themselves on the rock
shelves. Fortunately the snakes are rare. Deer flies, Seagulls and
cormorants aren't - we saw plenty.
Buddy liked the anchorage. Dinghies came by to see him and he
talked his head off all afternoon. We've never heard him talk that much
in public.
7/24/05 - We were awaken by a fine
mist falling on our faces through the screen on the overhead hatch. It
was raining in the Benjamin's. Kind of fit with the drunken brawl a
group of rafted power-boaters got into at 2am. They woke up the whole
harbor. Shows to go yah, drunken people are drunken people wherever they
go.
It was still raining when we set sail for Gore Bay, a short jaunt
SW. We wanted to anchor there for the night so we could pick up our
e-mail and use the cell phones (yes, Sprint apparently resolved our
connectivity). The sail was great! We beat into a 15-18 knot wind (true)
turning 6-7 knots over the bottom. It doesn't get much better. The rain
let up, then stopped, though the sky remained gray.
We've tried unsuccessfully to make radio contact with
Ariel, Water Kraft and Master Bullfrog. They are all
in the North Channel in this time period. We did have a nice chat with a
different Ariel, comparing weather conditions at our respective
points.
7/25/05 - We got an internet
connection at Canadian
Yacht Charters and caught up on the e-mails and website. We weighed
anchor about 10 and headed out for Barrie Island. When we got near the
end of the bay the winds were 31 knots apparent on the nose and
the waves were breaking over the foredeck. I put two reefs in the main
and furled 70% of the headsail to control our heel. It was going to be a
nasty crawl upwind. Sampatecho radioed to say they really didn't want to
spend 5-6 hours pounding to another anchorage and had things they
could accomplish with a "down day" back in Gore Bay. We both turned
around and surfed into the bay.
I started my afternoon sewing up the main sail cover zipper that
was damaged during reefing in the high winds. Nice to have the tools
onboard!
Bacchanalia joined us this afternoon. They'd been fighting
the wind and waves and decided this was as good a destination as any
(any port in a high wind).
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