The Great Loop

2004 - 200?

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Key West, the rounding point of the Loop Route and the start of this portion of the log.

This page contains our most recent postings. The Loop Log accesses the entire narrative via a list of voyage segments, and Loop Gallery contains photos of the trip in a main gallery and a host of sub-galleries accessible through a gallery log page. The photo galleries on Key West are in the works.

Updated 3/17/05.

     
 2/22/05- We've been at Key West since the 19th. At first we anchored in Pearl Basin two miles west of town and just enjoyed the water sports boats that came out to the sandbars next to us and the boat and ship traffic in city to the east. A quiet time, interrupted in the evenings by visits from dolphins and other large fish identified only as splashes.

Today we moved to a new anchorage along Man Of War Harbor next to Fleming Key, the Naval Base, about 1 mile from Mallory Square - site of Key West's sundown tradition.

2/23/05- We visited Key West in search of a business friend of Barry's who had moved aboard a boat here several years ago to pursue his musical dreams. To our surprise we found Matt and learned that he was realizing his dream and playing with known Blues icons. It's great to see a dream playing out!

2/25/05- We moved to an open spot just off the Fleming Key passage  to cut the dinghy ride to town down to 1/4  mile and to escape the constant 24 hour a day passages of tows moving sand from the dredge working the cruise ship turning basin. It was a partially cloudy Friday until the squall hit around 4pm. A 36 foot sailboat next to us dragged into the Coast Guard pier as the winds surpassed 35 knots. Then our scenery starting changing - we were dragging. A strong cross tide working with the wind effectively put us on a reach causing AA to sail windward until  our anchor popped free. I had the engine running so we could somewhat dodge anything dragging down on us, so we were able to control our drift until the anchor reset about 100 yards later. By now the Coasties and Harbor Services had responded to the 36 footer; Harbor Services taking it in tow. The Coasties came over to check us out as we'd dragged into the channel. Learning we were secure they complimented us on having our life jackets on (boaters among you will recognize that as the first thing they say when a boat calls for assistance). We hung there 45 minutes until the winds dropped to 20 knots then moved back to our original spot and re-anchored. Ruth noted it was a rather nice experience - adding a little excitement to the day.

2/26/05- Looks like we'll hang around Key West a few more days. May be joined by Val & Mike, and we plan to hear Matt play Tuesday night. I can think of worse places though Ft Myers Beach still holds "Best Yet" title.

3/1/05- Val and Mike met us at Key West Bight Marina where we'd taken a slip for the night. We went to hear Matt and band - what a great evening! The band had the KW native crowd rocking!

3/2/05- Mike and Val have become saltwater fishing enthusiasts thanks to training from Rick, a Pioneer friend from "Aquaholic" that winters in Marathon. Mike is renown in the Marathon area for catching pelicans - having hooked two while fishing with Rick. He says they put up quite the fight. They graciously shared the knowledge with us (except for the pelican skills)... or at least with Ruth who boarded 4 or five nice fish. I brought a couple to the surface but they snapped my 10# test line.

Val and I saw a large ray become airborne, clearing the water by 3' with its wings flapping. It repeated the maneuver a second time for us. Pretty amazing to see a fish with a 3-4' wing span flapping in the air! Something must have been after or bothering it.

It was great having guests, particularly such enjoyable ones. We anchored out their second night, grilling a pork tenderloin. Turned out to be quite the feast!

3/3/05- Val got to see a couple of dolphin that came by to check us out. Time for the guests to start to Miami for their trip home. I took them in by dinghy - wishing them a safe journey and inviting them back. We'll hang around a couple more days to get our VHF radio checked out; people are noting it is hard to hear.

3/4/05- Our guest got out of dodge at the right time! While the day was pretty laid back, cloudy and high 60's, a front moved in around dusk with forecast winds of 15 knots. By 8:30 it was pouring and the winds were peaking over 35 knots. We again blew off our anchor, dragging into the main channel, barely missing a large green buoy. We were headed for a 1 foot deep shoal... soooo - into the wet gear and out into the rain. Ruth fired up the diesel and I worked my way forward to raise the anchor. Visibility was nil as Ruth drove the boat upwind to near where we'd been anchored and I dropped the anchor so she could back down and set it. The winds stayed with us all night (I know because I stayed up to make sure we stayed put) slowly diminishing to 15 knots only to regroup and raise back into the high 20's. I'm beginning to wonder if the 45# Delta anchor we have is adequate in high winds given the way the boat kites. We're trying more scope, 6:1 versus 4 and 5:1, to see if it helps; also playing with differing harnesses at the bow.

3/5/05- Ruth headed home for tax time and business meetings, catching up with Mike and Val on their flights; arriving just in time for 48 degree weather - then snow.

3/6/05- I moved to Boca Chica Channel to replace a missing zinc and have a radio checked. I found the radio problem and fixed it myself. The tide in the channel was strong and the available anchorages had a bottom too rocky for holding. I returned to Fleming Key that night - glad I knew the area!

3/7/05- Kind of a gray day, mid-seventies, with light breezes. Spent the morning writing, route planning (2,500 plus miles to Sturgeon Bay) and the afternoon sanding and varnishing the cockpit sole and swim platform.

3/8/05- Wind gods tried to blow us away again last night (2 am). Succeeded with a couple of boats but AA held. Warm, mid 70's, cloudy with showers, a front moving in. Good day for writing!

3/11/05- Did the tourist bit in Key West again yesterday, what a mob - it's spring break. Had our high winds at 3am the 10th, blew a cat off their anchor - felt sorry for them trying to re-anchor in 30-35 knots and driving rain. they made it their 3rd try. Bet they were happy to hit the sack - all but the soul who took anchor watch. Yesterday was beautiful and about 70. Today broke sunny and 60, quickly warming to 70's. We're due for another wave of wind, then the forecast looks good. AA will likely head for Marathon then.

3/13/05- Yesterday I toured Key West and added a few photos for a KW gallery. Yes, the dog rides like that, his owner says he obeys lights and the speed limits too. I also listened to Papa Matt and his group do a charity gig. It was a different experience as they asked me to check their balance and relative volumes - kinda like fiddling with the bass/treble and balance on a stereo, except it was a live group. Today I help Matt access the mooring for one of his boats. It required a lot of diving to check it all out (no tanks, did it all on lungs). Twas another beauuuutiful day! This could get habit forming!

3/16/05- Finished off the boat maintenance for now. Current plans call for me hanging here until Ruth returns... Maybe until Bill and Jill arrive. Papa Matt sez another week and I'm eligible to vote. Weather's not bad if you like 70's and 80's with sun and 10-15 knot winds. Hmmm which side shall I tan this afternoon?

3/17/05- Saw an unusual event this afternoon. A large (5') ray flew out of the water and hit the side of a 22' sport fishing boat. The stunned ray fell back into the water. The 4 early 20's men in the fishing boat turned around and came back to the ray. They leaned over, massaging the ray and moving it back and forth in the water until it recovered; flashing away. I saw the ray a couple of time later in the afternoon; it seemed no worse for wear.

3/19/05- It seems like every 3-4 days I hear a vessel calling the USCG to report coming across a raft full of people drifting just offshore. Given it's a big sea and a long mangrove lined coast, one wonders how many drown and how many make it to shore unnoticed.

Continue to Fernandina Beach.

Return to the Loop Route.

 

Cruise Ships arrive after dawn

Everything for a day at the beach

Eastern sky at sundown, anchorage 2

Key West Anchoring

We've anchored a number of sites around Key West, looking for changes in scenery. Contrary to our expectations there are plenty of places to drop the hook. Initially we anchored west of Key West, just north of the Northwestern Passage at Pearl Basin. This turned out to be the day playground for a couple of water sports vendors. After a couple of days we moved to Man of War Harbor, next to Fleming Key about a mile north of Key West Bight (the downtown harbor). Again holding was good, though now we had a reversing tidal flow - no problem. After a few days we noted an opening closer to town and moved to the south end of Fleming Key. We anchored in three different areas here as we left and returned finding the spot we vacated filled by another boat. Holding was good; though in areas the tidal current from Fleming Key Cut was pretty strong. This site was about 1/2 mile from the dinghy dock by Turtle Crawl in Key West Bight; where we could park our dinghy for $5.50/day. We spent a night at the Galleon Marina and later a night at Key West Bight Marina. These stops gave us a chance to wash salt off the boat, provision, pump out, pick up guests and fill our water tanks.

Mike and Val enjoying sundown

Reputedly the dog obeys traffic laws

Papa Matt plays at a local benefit