The Great Loop

2004 - 2005

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We're continuing on our 340 mile trek through the Erie Canal to Lake Erie, traveling in the company of S/V Sampatecho. Our entry into the canal is now in the loop log.

This page contains our most recent postings. The Loop Log accesses the entire narrative via a list of voyage segments, and Loop Gallery contains photos of the trip in a main gallery and a host of sub-galleries accessible through a gallery log page.

Updated 6/8/05.

     
6/2/05 - Thursday looked like a nasty day when I awoke - grey, misting, 50's. Hard to push ahead in that kind of weather but our Canadian friends were ready to push off at 8, so we did. By ten the sun was out and the temperature in the high 70's. What a beautiful day! You could smell the spring flowers as we motored through the wooded countryside. Occasionally a small town would appear - one or two buildings camped on the canal with the rest peaking from a shroud of vegetation. Most of the towns looked worn but proud. The signs of abandoned industries dotted the waterway. In the 1800's this was the heart of the industrial revolution... today the heart is is in critical condition.

We traversed 7 more locks, running about 60 miles. Most of the locks were in the 20' lift range. The highest lift was 40 feet in an unusual lock that you entered by passing under the gate as if entering a parking garage. The locks are in good condition and the tenders are personable. They phone ahead for traffic so the next lock will be prepared. They also passed along the word that AA had a parrot on board that would answer you if you whistled. Buddy was in parrot heaven; whistling and calling "It's a parrot".

We met no commercial traffic. We're told the only commercial boats are those engaged in maintenance of the locks, the canal is used by pleasure boaters. We bought a 10 day pass for $50 - a good deal. A season pass is $100.

We traveled a long day, tying up at Kitty's on the Canal, Utica NY, about 7 pm. We joined Bradd and Maeve for cocktails and hit our berths by 8:30 - the locks sure wear you out!

We've learned that the original Erie Canal opened in 1825. It was four feet deep and 40 feet wide. It lead to a building boom as towns blossomed along its length. It was privately built. The cost was recovered in fees in the first two years! Today's canal follows the same general path but utilizes the rivers and dams to create a system of 57 locks that elevate traffic 402 feet. The locks measure 12' deep, 44.5' wide and 400 feet long.

6/3/05 - Another sunny day in paradise! We're headed to the beach.

We motored about 29 miles, passing through 3 locks. The last 2 were descending locks located in New London, NY. Interesting to me in that I grew up in New London, WI. At lock 20 we passed under a series of high voltage power lines. They appeared quite low, but about 25 feet above us. I got a sustained shock through the leather wrapping on the helm like I'd grabbed a spark plug wire. When we reported it on the radio the lockmaster noted he'd never had that happen before.

We saw a number of canal maintenance boats today. Tugs, dredges, barges, crew barracks and crew boats; all in their distinctive colors. We also saw a timeless dry dock facility... perhaps dating to the original canal.

About noon we arrived in Sylvan Beach on Oneida Lake. We took an afternoon off to read and swim. Very nice break after the long days of running. Then we were off to do some shopping and mail letters. Everything is a short walk away. While walking, we met some people that told us the Oneida Indians of New York State are trying to reclaim some of the land in this area and that they are part of the Oneidas in DePere WI.   It's pretty much the same concept that most Indian tribes have adopted as they now have the capital to pursue it.

We spent the evening at the waterfront public mooring. They provide 48 hours free for visiting boats - very nice! Met a lot of interested folks with questions about our trip and our destination. Locals Chris and Patti were adopted by Ruth for a pleasant evening of conversation. Chris is a pipe fitter who now must travel to New York and Minneapolis to find work. Patti, an outgoing animated gal, has overcome deafness and become a vocal conversationalist.

6/4/05 - Another bright sunny dawn.  We pushed off at 7am to cross Oneida Lake a body of water the size of Lake Winnebago but with twice the depth. We had a "slow bug" hatch... made us feel right at home! After the lake we noticed that the waterfront was more developed than the first part of our trip - a lot of cottages. We passed through Baldwinsville as they were preparing for the Blessing Of The Fleet.

We ran about 52 miles, anchoring next to Sampatecho for the night in Cross Lake - nice sand, cool clear water, great swimming! (Yes, Sampatecho is spelled right - it's named after their kids, Sam, Pat & Echo.)

We enjoyed a sunset dinner as guests of Maeve & Bradd. Life doesn't get any better!

6/5/05 - It's daughter Nikki's birthday, the sun is shining and it's warm. We departed Cross Lake at 8am to start the second half of the canal. The landscape has changed again and we occasionally see glimpses of dairy farms and rolling fields through the trees. There are more people camping in the woods along the waterway.

Buddy has his locking routine down pat. He recognizes the events that lead up to our entering a lock and starts calling "parrot" or whistling. Bradd answers him, as do most of the lock attendants (the locks have been conveying the fact of Buddy's presence as they call each other to report traffic). If he's not on deck they ask "Where's your bird?"

We motored thru lock 28b and tied at the free mooring in Lyons. The town has developed a nice waterfront with landscaping, mooring, showers and washer/dryer - all at no charge to transients. We shared the wall with two canal barge reproductions, a powerboat and three sailboats. Buddy made sure we met everyone!

6/6/05 - 6am, I'm up working on the website. We've about 90 miles of the Erie left. It will be slower going as we now have bridges that have to open for us. The bridges were built round 1910. They clear the water by 2 - 3' and have to open for boats. They raise to about 14' clearance. The unusual aspect is that pedestrian traffic can walk up stairs at each end of the bridge and cross it while if is open. Tim, the bridge tender, demonstrated the controls and told me the history of the bridges. He'd started a few months back as a bank walker assigned to a 12 mile stretch, responsible for looking for leaks. Keep in mind that often the grey strip you see alongside the canal is the ridgeline of the roof of a 2 - 3 story house. The canal is level, the terrain isn't. Rivers and streams pass under the canal.

It sprinkled lightly off and on in the morning before it cleared and warmed into the 80's. We had 20 -25 knot winds - no problem on the canal though dust blew up from the paths. We saw a lot of hikers, bikers and runners using the canal side paths.

Holley NY was our stop for the night. We'd traveled over 60 miles. Holley's waterfront included new showers and restrooms, power and water. All they expect is that you visit and shop. We did. We also did a little sight seeing, visiting a waterfall on a river that passes under the canal.

6/7/05 - Beautiful morning, 70's, light breeze... 8am and time to boogie. We traveled through farms, orchards and woodlands. Only 2 locks today to take us to the level of Lake Erie.

We traveled through farms, woods and large apple orchards interrupted by occasional small towns. We saw areas where the canal wall had recently slid and been repaired.

At Lockport we climbed to the level of Lake Erie via a combine lock (flite lock) with two deep cells then motored through a long narrow stone cut - stunning! Docks, boats and homes soon populated the banks as we approached Tonawanda. We found a mooring ($25.00) and tied up for the night. Tomorrow we clean the boat in preparation for a short move to step the mast Thursday. The canal trip is done. Do it again? In a heartbeat!

 

Sampatecho waits for a lock

Remnants of the original Erie Canal

You drive into this 40' lock

Traveling Companions

We've traveled quite a bit with Sampatecho as we're headed the same direction at the same speed - and we've enjoyed their company. Speaking of companies; they own and operate Cruising Solutions (www.cruisingsolutions.com) specializing in items for the serious cruiser.

Canal Barge at anchor, Cross Lake

I'm caught up on the photo galleries. Visit the Gallery Log for new entries. Note also the addition of Gemstones to the navigation bars.

Waiting for a low bridge

Holley waterfall  - all below canal level

This entry ends the Erie Canal Leg. A new page will be started for our Lake Erie travels.