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8/16/10 - Another beautiful day - we
sure have been blessed. We went ashore for breakfast at the Yellow Cello
Cafe followed by a walk downtown. Baddeck is a small town that triples
in size for the summer.
On returning to the boats I stopped to help Bradd a little with
his heater installation. It's going to be a neat installation with a
dedicated 5 gallon diesel fuel tank. The system is almost fully
installed - Bradd's been working on it for a few days.
We saw a grey seal today. Ruth got a good look as it "spy
hopped" around our boat. It's the largest seal we've seen to date.
8/17/10 - Today we're paying the
weather tax. Gray and drizzle. I spent a good part of the morning
sorting through all the photos Ruth took at the Highland Village - whew!
We have WiFi so I was able to handle some correspondence with the
Sr Editor of Good Old Boat magazine, putting the finishing
touches on an article for their November issue. Not much else in e-mails
though... Ruth is waiting on some contacts.
While Sampatecho went to a boatyard to have a new freezer
compressor install Ruth and I walked to the Alexander Graham Bell
museum. We spent several hours walking thru exhibits and viewing films
of this remarkable man, the teacher of the deaf. Additionally he
invented the telephone, designed a large hydrofoil that held the world speed
record for a decade (114 kph), designed and built with others a series of 5 or
more successful aircraft and hundreds of other inventions or
improvements on the discoveries of others. The museum is here because
this was his home most of his latter life. His mansion is still owned
and occupied by the family.
8/18/10 - Last night's forecast rain
didn't materialize. We woke to a cloudless morning. Sampatecho is
back together and ready to roll.
We've enjoyed Baddeck and would readily revisit this recreational
harbor community. We left it around noon and sailed to Otter Island and
Otter Harbor, a 4 hour run. It was a fluky sail down a long channel
bordered by 600+ foot high forested ridges. The winds ranged from
2 to 24 knots from varying compass headings - challenging sailing. On
arrival we did a little exploring before going to Sampatecho for
a shrimp pasta dinner.
8/19/10 - We slept in until 8, had
breakfast, read and looked for otters. We saw eagles but no mammals...
they must have been some otter place.
Ruth took the dinghy to Otter Island for some beaching, coming up
with only a few pieces of driftwood. She did report finding a colony of mussels
to Bradd & Maeve which prompted them to go hunting and Ruth to flee. I
think she's had it with mussels.
Bradd worked on their heater installation, wrapping heater ducts
and exhaust lines and reinstalling the autopilot. I read, finishing a
great historic mystery.
The weather forecast for the next few days has the wind from the
North, time for us to head west for St Peters though we've only touched
the Bras d'Or Lakes.
8/20/19 - A touch of fog joined us
just after dawn. It quickly burned off as we motored the roughly 40
miles to St Peters. Time to bid the Bras d'Or Lakes goodbye and head for
the States. We definitely are going to miss the friendly water and
folks.
Under soaring eagles we motored into the Lion's Club Marina at St
Peters where we took on 141 liters of diesel for $165C. After anchoring
we headed up to Foodland for some provisions. The checkout clerk noted
we were sailors and told us they had a free shuttle back to the marina,
would we like it? You bet!
Back on the boat Ruth stocked the cupboards while I did the
e-mails and updated the website. WiFi courtesy of the Lion's.
8/21/10 - Gray day, high overcast.
We'll be out of range of WiFi for a few days as we work our way back to
Halifax. We have a small weather window before east winds are forecast
to rile the ocean up.
We passed thru the narrow St Peters Canal, exiting the Bras d'Or
Lakes. The floating timber fenders provided protection if we were to be
blown against the rock sides of the canal.
Once out of the protection of the canal we realized the wind was
on the nose again and we'd have a 4 hour slog into building waves to get
to Canso. The weather forecast had changed for the third time in 24
hours. We decided to sail into the Lennox Passage, anchoring behind
Indian Island, a snug little cove surrounded by evergreens. Ruth
promptly lowered the dinghy and went beaching while I settled in to read
Che.
We'd traveled only about 10 miles, however approaching rain made
the cove inviting. Ruth beached thru a couple of bouts of mist returning
with a collection of sticks just as the real rain started - great
timing.
8/22/10 - Woke to a sunny morning. We
departed our anchorage at 8am to get an early start and make some miles.
A 15 to 20 knot NW wind drove us around the eastern end of Nova Scotia
and west along the shore at 7 - 8 knots. The seas were relatively flat
as the wind was offshore. The swells were from the east, behind us most
of the trip.
We selected Little Liscomb bay as our anchorage for the night.
It's our second time here though the area we're anchored in we haven't
seen before. There are a couple of small villages, population maybe
100-200 each and an inn.
We sailed 75nm today. Great sailing and a beautiful day!
8/23/10 - We've been in Nova Scotia
for a month and a day! Up early as we're trying to make it to a safe
harbor for forecasted nasty weather. Speaking of weather, they are very
thorough... tell you everything twice simultaneously on two channels -
if you understand French and English. Daunting when you tune in early in
the French forecast and have to wait for it to complete before the
English version. Wonder why they don't devote one channel to each
language? The other thing you need to know is where you are in their
terms, Eastern Shore, Eastern Slope, Sable, etc.
We had an early anchorage today, hook down by 1:30p after a 40 nm
run. The chart shows 0' of water here while we're comfortably sitting in
20' of water in a nice secure little cove under gray skies with about 20
knot winds. Halifax is about 35 miles away, an easy day in the right
wind.
Bradd radioed to announce he had fired up their diesel heater for
the first time - said it sounds like a jet aircraft (told him he'd need
an intake muffler). We had a celebration dinner on AA for them. From our
experience we know they'll enjoy the comfort of dry heat during the raw
days of spring and fall.
8/24/10 - Woke at 7am and watched the
sun rise as the rigging sang in 14-16 knot winds. If they are this
strong in our secure little bowl I can imaging why there are gale
warnings on the ocean. After a short discussion with Bradd we decided to
stay here today and do some exploring by dinghy.
Ruth wanted to stay aboard and read so I went ashore with Bradd &
Maeve to find the fabled fish smokehouse. We did after a two mile walk.
I bought some smoked trout.
Later we all went beaching. Ruth found some neat glass and I found
a Canadian ten - paid for the trout. Good trout, Ruth's feeding it to me
as I write.
Bradd went mussel hunting, Ruth said no! We'd have smoked trout,
thank you!
8/25/10 - The forecast rain never
came. We left under sail at 7:30am for Halifax. With 6' following seas
push us along we sailed, motor-sailed and sailed the 45 nm to Halifax,
anchoring a 3pm. We motor-sailed during the wind shifts to beat the
weather, a gale forecasted to arrive early evening (a gale is defined as
sustained winds of 30 knots or more).
We're anchored in sight of the downtown waterfront, at the north
end of McNabs Island. Eight WiFi signals are present but the ones that
are strong enough to connect to are secured. The free waterfront system
one has one bar, not enough for a connection even with our outside
antenna hoisted.
8/26/10 - The wind sang in the
rigging last night, though definitely not a gale inspired tune - 10 to
15 knots maximum in our little cove. Predawn we could hear ships
sounding their throaty horns into a foggy muffler. Dawn revealed a dense
blanket of fog; we could hardly see Sampatecho anchored next to
us.
Light showers did little to dissipate the fog. We could hear the
rumble of ships passing our cove, seeing none of them.
The fog lifted at noon so we crossed over to the day slips along
the waterfront, gaining access to shops and WiFi.
Info from Summersault indicates they had a great time
sailing with Ariel in Maine through the 21st. They split then
with Summersault heading home and Ariel remaining in Maine
to explore further.
Miles noted: Currently we are in the North end of Penobscott
visiting Belfast and Castine. We will hang around here until labor day
then head South to arrive in Annapolis the last week in Sept for a
bottom job.
Good to hear from them again!
Ruth hit the beach glassing mother lode today. She found a site
un-glassed before and came back with bags of well tumbled glass. Pretty
soon only our toe rails will be above water.
8/27/10 - A beautiful sunny morning
greeted us as we headed to Sampatecho for a wild blueberry
pancake breakfast. Delicious.
Bradd, Maeve and Ruth headed back to the beaching mother lode
while I stayed on AA reading Che and keeping Buddy
company.
A little after noon a power boat came alongside, we were on their
mooring and they wanted to use it for the weekend. As I was preparing to
move and anchor the glassing gang came back so we cast off and went
sailing.
The wind was good at 15 knots so we left Halifax and sailed around
the point to Ketch Harbor, anchoring about 5pm. The harbor is surrounded
by a community of about 300. We were in the center of town... no WiFi.
8/28/10 - Another beautiful day. We
sailed, motor sailed, sailed and motored to Mahone Bay so Sampatecho
could pick up a bike that had shipped there and so we all could get
e-mail.
Enroute I made radio contact with Running Free, Bill
Rohde's friend. We had a short talk, learning we we headed opposite
directions again.
At Mahone Bay we anchored just off the mooring field, near where
we'd anchored with Ariel weeks ago... time do fly. It's a very
busy area with a wide variety of boats passing, deer in the fields (no
moose) and a wedding party having a photo session.
8/29/10 - We went into town in the
morning, number one on our list was a new can opener. I've been chewing
the lids off since our last one died. Couldn't find one. We picked up a
few groceries and went sailing around the bay for the day.
We ended up near Chester, meeting with Tony & Judy of Sanity
Check. Sampatecho had us all aboard for dinner and a chance
to catch up. Sanity Check will be right behind us as we head
west.
8/30/10 - We headed down to Round
Island to meet with Intuit... thanking them for the loan of their
cruising guide for the past month. Then we started out for Lunenburg
deciding enroute to motor sail past Brooklyn and West Berlin to
Liverpool (quite the trip, eh? Okay, they're all Nova Scotia towns on
the same peninsula).
At Liverpool we took a slip at the Brooklyn Yacht Club. We saw a
few trees starting to color, can it be that time already?
We've started our hurricane watch for Earl, Currently she's
forecast to hit our area around 2am Saturday morning as a category 1
storm (75-95 knots). We plan to be battened down in Shelburne as their
harbor is about 8 miles inland and the yacht club has a hurricane plan.
Payback for all the good weather?
8/31/10 - We left at 7am, headed west
for our hurricane hole. While the storm is slowing and is now forecast
for Saturday noon the seas will proceed it by a couple of days (we're
still dealing with 6' swells from the last one).
We sailed, did a little motor sailing, and sailed to Shelburne,
picking up a free mooring a McNutt's Island. It was another beautiful
day on the water with 15-20 knots apparent, on the nose, so we tacked a
lot.
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Ruth shot this Bald Eagle leaving its nest (tasted a lot like spotted
owl)

This couple had to wait for wind to leave as they have no engine in
their boat

Bell planned on a small log cabin by the stream... plans change

Looks like a waterfalls cascading between the trees, it's really a
marble outcropping

The narrow St Peters canal has floating fenders to protect the boats
from the rocks

Sampatecho rounds the last bend before the locks

Ruth's collection of sticks from beaching at Indian Island

Ruth caught us at the Highland Village school - kids will be kids

Maeve snapped this photo of AA anchored in a rocky Nova Scotia cove (are
there any other kind?)

As the fog lifted we saw a ship crossing behind us, one of 6 that had
arrived in the fog
The Canadian Coast Guard - what a difference
It's really refreshing to deal with the Canadian Coast Guard; takes
me back to my youth when the Coast Guard's mission was assist and
rescue.
Halifax Radio, the voice of the Coast Guard along the eastern shore
of Nova Scotia takes assisting boaters to heart/
First, you can call them for a radio check and you get an
enthusiastic reply, often accompanied with a have a great sail or a good
day.
When boats are having problems linking up by radio they will often
break in and offer to relay the message.
When a boat is having difficulties they are reassuring and helpful.
Important here because assistance may be half a day away. What a
contrast to the military auctioneer chatter of the USCG.
Part of the difference is there's considerably less radio traffic up
here... part of it is mission and part is attitude.
However they project themselves it's great to know they are there
when the chips are down.

Ruthie is cornering the market on beach treasures - urchins and
starfish from the beach at McNabs Island here

It's a family affair

Cliff top home along Mahone Bay
Ruth found this way of unloading chips at Bowater Abitibi mill
in Liverpool interesting

The Brooklyn Yacht Club

Dawn rising in the little Brooklyn / Liverpool basin; oh. by the way,
ocean-going ships come in here too to serve the papermill.
We're still not lost
Our updates will continue to be sporadic as
we're dependant on WiFi hot spots in Nova Scotia (though we've found
many more hot spots than we expected).
Our SkyMate position reports will be posted
daily as always.

A sailing submarine? Nope, Sampatecho behind a 6' swell.

Some go down... some go up; but that's a whole 'nother story - the
lobster boat on Little Hope Island.

During our walk along the trail we encountered this cell phone booth.
It's strictly BYOP (bring your own phone)

A little further along we came across the WWII gun placement that
protected Shelburne, a navy outpost at the time

Bradd adds a little scale to the gun's size, or is that two "big
guns"

Finally, we find a moose in Nova Scotia (never did see a panda) |