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7/1/10 - July! Wow! My first task
each morning is checking our power after each night. Today we were down
52 versus our normal 75 amp-hrs thanks to a strong wind all night.
We had a lot of fun at Bob & Judy's cottage after a quick run to
Stop 'N Shop for provisions. We had lunch and supper there; in between
we went swimming in the fresh water lake and did a little sailing on a
sunfish. The day passed too quickly.
Returning to AA we had to be towed by Bradd as our water pump
finally totally died. Tomorrows job is to remove the engine from the
dinghy and replace the pump.
7/2/04 - 10 - 15 knot winds from the
NW, a perfect day for Sampatecho to head to Nova Scotia. Ruth decided
she wanted to join them later so we stayed while they left. Our mail
package hasn't arrived yet... we are somewhat off the beaten path in
Chatham. We'll have to wait for it to get here before we can leave to
rejoin Ariel.
I can't get the lock off the dinghy engine. When I installed it
last year we bought a very good one and I packed it with grease to keep
it from seizing. Guess that didn't work. I think I'll need a skilled
crook to get it off. Our work around will have to be another dinghy
under the engine and doing the rebuild while the engine is on our dinghy
while it is hanging on our hoist.
Hmm, found the right key to the dinghy engine lock. That sure
helped. We put the engine on the rear pulpit and disassemble the lower
unit. It went fairly smooth with Ruth's help. After installing the new
water pump kit (the old one didn't look worn though a couple of shaft
seals were bad) we cleared the engine water line with a barbeque skewer
and a big squirt water gun ($1.00 at the Dollar Store). We also used the
water gun to flush the water passages in the block. After we had it all
back together we put it on the dinghy and started it... surprise, it
worked.
7/3/10 - Another beautiful morning.
Buddy and Barry are up, coffee's perking, most of the world is up and
kicking (teasing Ruth, she's not a morning person).
We went dinghy exploring (actually we wanted to see if our repairs
held up). To get to the inner harbor we passed under the wooden draw
bridge and followed miniature buoys through a fleet of moored motorboats
and a few shallow draft sailboats. The one hour notice for the bridge
lets the bridge tenders get to the winches so they can hoist the span.
Bob picked us up to spend the afternoon swimming at the shack
(their term). It was great! They are fun to be with and interesting to
talk to. Judy's broken arm was giving her a lot of pain yet we had to
gang up on her to keep her from going to a ball game - wanted us to see
some future major league stars.
7/4/10 - Happy 4th! While Chatham
doesn't have fireworks several of the wealthy summer folks apparently
don't know that. We watched a display over the water that would rival
Appleton's... it was only one of 5 we could see along the shoreline. The
time delayed echoes bouncing around the harbor sounded like we were
surrounded.
We left the harbor in 20-25 knots of wind; two reefs in the
mainsail and a 50% headsail. With the wind at about 40 degrees apparent
we tore up Chatham Roads. Then the wind slowed and we shook out the
reefs and went to a full headsail. Then the wind slowed and we turned on
the engine. The auto pilot need about 100 nudges and 5 failures over a 2
hour period before it kicked in and worked flawlessly for the next 4
hours. Go figure!
About 4 hours into our trip the breeze shifted and became a wind
again. By the time we reached Vineyard Haven we had 20-25 knot winds
again with occasional gust to 30. A little of everything today.
We anchored behind Brad and Alice's boat, Aurora. We'd
talked by phone earlier and learned it was Alice's birthday, an
independence lady.
7/5/10 - Last night was all about
fireworks. Ruth was afraid we wouldn't see any as a few locals fired off
a few just as dusk settled in. Then the show began... about 4 villages east of us started hour
long shows, to the ESE Nantucket joined in trying to outdo the others.
South of us Edgartown put forth a valiant effort; but the honors went to
Falmouth just north of us. Their show started a little later than some -
when it was darker. We watched in awe as hundreds of rockets exploded in
reds, blues, magenta, greens and gold. I think more gunpowder was
expended
last night than was spent in the entire Revolutionary war. With all the
booming Buddy must have thought parrot season was opening.
We're anchored just outside the harbor at Vineyard Haven on
Martha's Vineyard. Ferry traffic is non-stop, tourists and locals
traversing to and from the mainland.
We went into Tisbury for a couple of grocery items and a visit to
West Marine for a new gas regulator for the grill. Struck out on the
regulator but score a copy of the July issue of Cruising World. I
checked to see how they had used parts of an article I sold them. The
editor noted they were using some of the material as a sidebar. Actually
they published a page and a half of my material with only one blip. I
have no idea where they came up with the Calumet Harbor I mentioned
being on Lake Winnebago rather than at the southern tip of Lake Michigan
(there actually is a Calumet Harbor on Winnebago but I never mentioned
it). They did a good job with their articles on the loop and Loopers.
Brad called from his job to invite Ruth and I to dinner. Around
5:30 their 7 year old twins rowed over to say we should bring what we
wanted to drink and come over. It was precious watching them row the
dinghy, one on each oar. It was unbelievable to see how grown up they've
become since I last saw them at Ame's Point.
We had a pleasant evening, the twins adopted Ruth while Alice,
Brad and I talked about their travels. I'm impressed by the miles they'd
put on at sea as they came down the St Lawrence to Nantucket, then
jumped from there to Soper's Hole, Tortola, BVIs. Very impressive for
first time cruisers!
7/6/10 - Sunny with a little hot
weather haze. I went into town and visited the boatyard where Brad is
working. They are rushing to finish a wooden 45' sailboat the owner is
building for himself. It's a beautiful boat - it's not often you get to
see the boat a builder would create for his family.
Alice and the twins came over to see Buddy and visit Ruth. It was
fun watching them react to a different vessel.
I talked to RayMarine today and got a listing of 3 dealers on the
New England coast that may be able to resolve the autopilot issue. The
tech offered a couple of suggestions: disconnect the rate of turn gyro
and test; have the device that detects rudder load checked as it may
have failed (I can't find this device on their website, our manuals or
our boat).
We had Alice, Bradd and the twins over for dinner. Ruth was
thrilled to spend time with the twins. While she and Alice entertained
them Bradd and I had a chance to talk about the boat he's working on and
an article I'm starting on the boat I helped build. As usual the evening
went too fast.
7/7/10 - Hot and hazy as the sun
rose. A little bit of a breeze kept the boat comfortable. Ruth sez it's
time to get moving to somewhere. With those explicit directions I'll
plot a course. First I have to find Ariel.
We spent some time researching the best way to get to Wal-Mart in
Falmouth, finally deciding that leaving tomorrow early for a slip in the
town marina was the quickest and most economical.
Last night the twins hid our lizards (they've been with us since
we had our Hunter on Lake Winnebago). We found one on the forward
port window but had to give up and call twin power to find the other.
They'd hidden it in the refrigerator (Ruth had guessed freezer but
couldn't find it though in retrospect Henry had given her three clues).
Smart kids!
7/8/10 - Hazy early, but clear by
8am. Off to Falmouth for the day. We had a nice short sail to Falmouth,
arriving about 10am and stopping to fuel and pump-out. Then we moved to
the village dock where we had a slip reserved.
By noon we were at Walmart, having lunch at Subway while we waited
for our meds for the next few months. On our way back to the boat we
stopped at West Marine, scoring only the parts to repair the grill; no
charts and no C-Map chip for our GPS. Back at the boat Ruth headed out
to do the wash while I washed salt off AA and polished stainless
steel.
We experienced some phenomenal customer service today. Ruth
learned that C-Map (the makers of our navigation chips) was located a
town away from Falmouth. We've been trying to find a map chip for Nova
Scotia for the past two weeks... so she called them asking if they had
the chip, and if they had any idea how to get it to us. They said yes
and yes. Around 6pm a beautiful young lady appeared on our dock with
said chip in hand.
7/9/10 - Hazy morning, looks like we
could see a little rain today. We couldn't get in the schedule of the
Falmouth tech so we scheduled with Navtronics in Kittery for next
Tuesday. Still trying to get on top of our autopilot. That noted, the
autopilot decided to go to work at noon today after a couple of hours of
prodding.
We had a nice leisurely sail to Onset, arriving in time for me to
take a nap. Ruth set up our TV for a movie night.
7/10/10 - Brother Karl's birthday
today. Happy Birthday! I hoisted anchor at 6:30am to catch the current
through the Cape Cod Canal. Nailed it and we did the 10 mile canal in
under an hour.
We motored and did a little motor-sailing as we headed north. We
found ourselves passing through a northbound sailboat race. The western
sky was darkening and radar showed heavy rain bands headed our way as
part of a front. We decided to duck into Scituate though we knew Kenny G
was tied up for the weekend.
Got on a mooring just minutes before the sky burst. Heavy rain
with surprisingly little wind. It just poured and poured. Our deck
should be rinsed by now.
7/11/10 - Sunny with just wisps of
high altitude clouds. Miles called, he was getting ready to pass through
the canal, about a day behind us. If he make the run he hopes to he'll
be about 2 hours behind us tonight.
After an enjoyable visit with the Golden Dragon (Kenny G) we
tossed off the mooring and headed to Gloucester. As expected the wind
was light and on the nose, so we motored the 25 miles anchoring in the
outer harbor. Miles and Laureen joined us about half an hour later.
We had dinner on Ariel, catching up with each other's
travels since Port Washington.
7/12/10 - Woke to pea soup fog; the
dirty gray type. After a short consult with Miles we decided to go.
Great fun! The Autohelm crashed continually for the first 2 hours,
drifting off course and leaving me confused with 100 yard visibility.
Juggling the compass heading, watching radar and watching for boats and
lobster pots is not fun for a single task mind.
Ruth got up when I idled to a stop, I just couldn't do it alone.
Especially after a boat crossed our bow slapping us with a 4' wake; I'd
seen only the radar blip.
Once around Cape Ann the boat traffic thinned out as did the pots.
That said I passed between two buoys to find they both disappeared.
Hummm? A little later I saw a blip coming down our course line. I
sounded the horn and turned 20 degrees to port. There was no reaction
from the blip. When radar put it abeam of us a white 100 foot plus motor
yacht steamed by at 12 knots, sounding his horn after he'd passed. Guess
the fog had put him to sleep or he's just use to people getting out of
his way.
Our chart plotter crashed 5 times shutting down the radar each
time. It's a real rush running in fog with no chart and no radar. Each
time we have to go down to the master, reboot the system, turn the radar
back on and reset the course line.
The fog lifted as we approached Portsmouth, NH... then slammed
down like a stage curtain. We felt our way to the anchorage, seeing a
lot of lobster boats on the radar. I was on the bow wearing one of our
headsets, talking Ruth into the anchorage. I saw Ariel, then I
saw the cliff under the fort. We anchored there temporarily, moving when
the fog lifted. It was a long 35 miles!
Oh, the two lobster buoys? They popped up at our bow when Ruth
backed down on the anchor. They were toggled (tied together with a long
tether) and must have done the bolo bit on the front of the keel; riding
there for 3 hours.
7/13/10 - Woke again to dense fog.
Miles had intended to leave early for Portland but delayed hoping the
fog would thin. It did a little so they headed north. We could hear boat
traffic on the river next to us but never saw a boat.
Just before lunch we moved up to Kittery Point Yacht Yard so we
could have our autopilot checked. Visibility was still about 100 yards
until just before we came to the boat yard where it cleared. Good deal!
John from Navtronics and a Raymarine pilot expert reviewed the
system and my log. Their conclusion was that the brushes in the actuator
are worn, dusted and sticking. This was likely missed in the Fort
Lauderdale bench test due to the unit being jostled while being handled
before the test. The remedy is to send the unit to Raymarine, a two week
turnaround. That will have to wait until it either fails completely or
we return from Nova Scotia.
7/14/10 - It rained like there would
be no tomorrow last night. Listening to it in bed I could picture pairs
of animals lining up for the ark.
We headed out in light fog, about 1 mile visibility and mist.
Again the wind was light and on the nose, the waves 3 to 4 feet high;
the perfect recipe for a sloppy motorboat ride to Portland.
At 5pm we anchor a short distance from Ariel's mooring.
Ruth wanted pizza (and cigarettes) for dinner so we took the dinghy to
Peak's Island, stopping at Ariel for planning. Miles indicated
they would be heading out tomorrow for Boothbay Harbor - he's in a hurry
to get to Northeast Harbor and on to Nova Scotia. We have a package to
pick up for Sampatecho at Northeast Harbor Saturday or Monday
Great pizza for supper, we'll have to remember the deli at the
grocery store on Peak's makes a great pie!
7/15/10 - Ariel headed north
in early morning fog. Ruth wanted a down day so we stay at Portland.
Mid-morning the fog cleared so we could enjoy our view of Portland and
the islands.
Ruth and I read most of the day; we were both finishing dynamite
books. When the tide went out she went glassing and I did a few
maintenance chores on the boat.
7/16/10 - AA was underway by
7:20am under gray skies and a light SW wind. We motor sailed 35 nm to
Boothbay Harbor, arriving at 12:30 after getting lost once and having to
backtrack (we'd actually gone by Boothbay. It's easy to do with all the
fingers of water that make up the coast here.
It was wildlife day, we saw 5 Minke whales and 7 seals along with
our assorted duck, loons and gulls. One of the whales was pretty good
sized (I wouldn't want to have tangled with any of them).
At Boothbay we fueled and picked up a mooring in front of Ariel.
Then we went into town and provisioned for our run to Nova Scotia. We
have two stops before we get there but neither is a good place to
provision.
Our obligatory fog moved in at 4pm, I'd sure missed it. Ruth and I
played cards with me winning the first three games and Ruth the second
three. Took her a little while to warm up.
7/17/10 - Bright and sunny this
morning. We were moving by 7:15 in light haze, about 3 mile visibility.
Ariel had left about 30 minutes earlier.
We motor sailed the first several hours. Our Autohelm woke up with
us and behaved itself most of the trip - surprise. The last 1-1/2 hour
we sailed toward Pulpit Harbor while I grilled cheese burgers for lunch.
Today we saw two whales and 1 seal along with the sea birds. Kind
of a quiet day. Haze hung along the shoreline, giving the illusion that
the land was floating above the sea. Very pretty!
At Pulpit we anchored in 30 feet of water, expecting to loose 10'
and gain 1 in the next 12 hours. Then we settled into relax mode while
we waited for our lobsterman. He showed up about 4:30pm. Ruth and I took
the dinghy over to buy 6 lobster. He said he'd drop them off a little
later and he did, 15 lbs of lobster for $65.00. Miles and Laureen came
over for a lobsta fest dinner... it was great! Ruth steamed them to
perfection!
7/18/10 - What a gorgeous morning! I
had the anchor up by 6:45, headed out of Pulpit Harbor. We rounded the
north end of the island enroute for the Deer Island Thoroghfare and on
through Casco Passage to Mt Desert's Northeast Harbor.
We saw a small whale and a couple of seals. Not a lot of sea
wildlife as it was lobster float day and we had to keep a close watch
for them. Coming out of Stonington our speed dropped to 4 knots and the
rudder became hard to turn. The current was pulling us toward a rocky
shoal so I kept the power on and held our heading until we got to open
water. Then I slowed and shifted to neutral. Ruth watched behind us,
"There's a float she called. There's another... and another." We'd
picked up three traps without seeing any of them - that's with two of us
on watch!
Miles must have snagged at least three, clearing them quickly by
turning and backing down. He has cutters on his prop shaft that are
designed to shear lines that try to tangle the prop. That noted, coming
into Northeast Harbor he commented it felt like they had line wrapped on
the prop shaft; I think we could be in same situation. While we strive
to avoid all floats, the killers are the pots with a float and toggle
both on the surface connected by line. I think you have a 50%
probability of snagging those suckers if you get within 30' of them.
A diver confirmed that Miles had acquired a float and some line.
It was quickly cleared. I missed the diver so we may still have a
souvenir of Maine.
7/19/10 - The barometer crept up a
little last night presenting us with a clear blue sky this morning. We
read part of the morning before going into town to pick up two packages
from Cruising Solutions. Found the post office closed from 11:30am to
1:30pm so we walked town and explored shops. Cute little town but you
can see where several stores have burned down over the years and not
been replaced. They have done a nice job of landscaping the areas that
were abandoned.
At 1:30 we got one of the packages, the first one shipped is the
one that hasn't arrived yet. We'll have to wait and see if it comes
tomorrow.
By two it was cloudy and sprinkling occasionally.
7/20/10 - The second package
didn't arrive today either. We talked to Bradd and he said tell the Post
Office to send it back if it ever arrives (it passed through the
clearing center one day away 4 days ago).
The weather forecast said this was the day to go to Nova Scotia so
we headed out a little after 10am for Shelburne, 158nm away. The wind
was light and variable so we motored all day and all night. Dense fog
came and went about 3 times.
Enroute we had something playing under us part of the trip. Our
depth sounder recorded bottom at about 560 feet; then something would be
under us rising from 80' to 6' (that's only 6" below our keel) before
diving back to 30'. This went on for over and hour. Whale? Or just a
school of fish?
Ruth and I went on 3 hour watches for the night. As the sun set
and we approached Cape Sable the temperatures started dropping - air and
water. Water got down to 41 degrees F while you could see your breath.
The fog closed in to about 100' visibility... we were flying by radar.
7/21/10 - Early morning watches suck
when its wet and foggy. It's really disorienting to get up and stagger
into a world with no visual reference. By the end of your watch there
are lots of things to see; the problem is none of them are real. Radar
plotted a lot more boats than I would have expected - mainly commercial
fishing boats searching for fish to net.
I woke at 7am to a beautiful day. Ruth had brought us safely
through the last of the fog and into a stellar clear morning. Wow, what
a difference a watch can make.
We were in Shelburne by noon, eating Ruth's porridge and waiting
to clear customs. Things went smooth (hey, Canada knows how to do it)
and after refueling we moved out to anchor, discovering that the cold we
had compromised our anchor windlass control and we couldn't lower the
anchor by power.
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