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5/15/08 - Sunrise in Fernandina Beach,
the northern edge of Florida. We ran the ditch again today though we
really wanted to jump offshore. The way I'm feeling I just didn't think
I should try a 20 hour run single-handed. These 8-10 hours days drain
me... I can't imagine running 20 without a break. Adrian and Jan, and
English couple had traveled with us the last couple of days. They had
sailed over from England (15 days) and had cruised Venezuela and the
Caribbean before working their way up the coast from the Bahamas. I
finally got to met them at Jekyll Island when we had lunch while waiting
for the tide to rise so we could transit Jekyll Creek, a notoriously
shallow section of the ICW.
With the tide rising we ran the creek, we also hit Mud River at high
tide - talk about luck. We did better than a tug and barge that grounded
yesterday and was blocking the ICW until late today. It's still aground
but has been able to swing enough to open the channel. Luckily it
occurred after we passed the area. May have been one of the two
southbound tows we met yesterday.
After a 65 statue mile day we anchored in the Darien River (about 70
miles south of Savannah). I made a can of chili for supper and settled
in for the night. The weather forecast calls for 30 knot winds and
possible thunderstorms... could be a long night.
5/16/08 - I was up at 5:45, still dark
outside. The forecast storms appear to have passed south of us during
the night. We had wind, but even that stayed in the low 20's; nothing to
keep a person up watching for an anchor alarm.
Didn't get to talk to Ruth yesterday, the landline is disconnected so
she is totally cellular. Works okay as long as it's charged and with
her. Left her a voice message wishing her well on today's closing for
the house. She'd related that even though the title hadn't transferred
yet a team of painters was at work scraping and painting. The new
owners-to-be elected to keep the colors we'd painted it.
Talked to Ruth, closing at 4pm today. She was loading the last bit
out of the house.
We ran in light rain all afternoon. Had a couple of areas where the
water was thin. AA bumped lightly twice at the south entrance to
Florida Cut, Squander grounded but was able to back off. I went
back to them by a different path and found more water so they could pass
through with their 6' 6" draft. The channel had moved and the range was
removed but no buoys added to reveal the changes. Hells Gate cut was
tight at 7' - makes life interesting. Georgia has some of the worse
stretches of the ICW.
AA & Squander anchored for the night in the Herb River
just south of Thunderbolt (Savannah) where Ariel had taken a slip
given the forecast for thunderstorms and damaging winds. Adrian, Jan and
I were comfortable that we would be secure with the shelter and good
anchor holding the river provided. We'll know in the morning.
5/17/08 - The sun rose over the dark
tree line at 6:30am after a beautiful night. We had an nice surprise
when Savannah treated us to an colorful fireworks display. Many of the
forecast weather events just don't happen. The scary ones are those that
aren't forecasted.
We started the day by passing on the wrong side of a mark as we
exited our first bridge. Ariel and Squander passed and I was following
when I realized our mistake - hey, it was early morning. They both draw
more water than AA so I followed. Luckily it was high tide with the 8'
of water it brings here. No problems mon.
We crossed the Savannah river and entered Field's cut, another
notorious section of the ICW. Had a smooth run through some very thin
water. No touches or groundings. It was a short day as we reached
Beaufort, SC, by early afternoon. All three boats anchored near the
Downtown Marina. We're taking a down day tomorrow to visit this historic
little community.
Went out to dinner with Miles, Laureen, Jan and Adrian. It was
interesting talking with a couple from England who had sailed 5 years
visiting the Mediterranean, Middle East and northern South America by
boat.
5/18/08 - Cool overcast morning - I
think we've caught up with the colder weather. While breakfasting in the
cockpit listening to Buddy beg for his share I reflected on the
challenges of single handing the boat in the ICW. Simple tasks like
keeping track of our route or looking ahead on it become more difficult.
Lunch has to be in a bag before we leave in the morning or get missed.
Using the head is an act of faith given a straight stretch, not traffic
and a good autopilot. Anchoring is easier than docking in the wind and
tides as there is nothing close to hit. And finally, the company sucks
(Buddy excluded). Talking to the smartest person on the boat all day,
yourself, is pretty boring.
Fueled in Beaufort as my gauge indicated I didn't have enough for
Charleston. Took on 42 gallons indicating that I was overcharged in St
Augustine... probably about 20 gallons at $4.45 per. Ouch! I may have
been given another boat's bill as two of us were fueling at the same
time. Wouldn't have happened with Ruth along as she watches the meter
while I fill the tank.
Mile, Laureen and I walked the city during the afternoon. Beaufort
does a nice job of maintaining a historic downtown while Lady Island has
the modern mall type stores. It works well.
We crossed wakes with friends met on earlier trips, talked via radio
to Bob on S/V Autumn Leaves (Hilton Head, SC) and visited Bill
and Louise on S/V Andelen (Barrington, RI). I noted M/V Alfie
at the marina but didn't see Virginia or Ed. It's always fun to meet and
compare adventures.
5/19/08 - I seem to be waking earlier
every day... 5:30am today. We have a 6:45 anchors up to clear the Lady
Island Bridge before they closed for the morning rush.
Today's run was smooth up to the last few miles. AA grounded
with the depth sounder reading 8' of water, must have hit a mud hummock
as Miles had already passed through the area. Sure got Adrian's
attention when I suddenly stopped in front of him. He swung to port and
passed by in 11' of water. I was able to wiggle
off quickly and continue behind him. For the next few miles we had skinny water.
By 3pm we'd run 67 statute miles and anchored in Charleston with
Ariel taking a slip on the Mega Dock (City Marina). I treated Buddy
to some cockpit time which got him in a talkative mood. We'll be here a
couple of days so the crews of Ariel and Squander can
explore the city.
5/20/08 - Another great morning, not a
cloud in the sky at dawn. Started the day with internet/e-mail access
problems. E-mail has been funky the last couple of days - not much
incoming. It could be a number of things, the fact we've dropped new.rr,
filters on rbhammer.com, or yahoo. Ran a couple of updates on my end and
it works??? Go figure!
We all went into Charleston and took a horse and carriage tour of the
historic district - learning that the city has the largest contiguous
historic district in the USA. It was interesting and the buildings were
beautiful. The Oleander was in bloom everywhere as our driver/guide
explained the growth of Charleston and the impact of the various
cultures on the city.
After the tour we provisioned at a Harris Teeter supermarket, calling
the marina van for a ride back to the harbor. Ruth had left me in good
shape so I only needed a few items.
Back at the boat we noted the sky darkening. Weather radio revealed
severe weather warnings, tornado warnings and other dire forecasts for
our area. The first wave passed just north of us about 7pm. The weather
radar on the computer indicated the second wave would hit us. At 8:45 it
did, starting with large rain drops, thunder, lightning and small hail.
What a light show! The last time I saw continuous lightning the
Hammerbergs, Cranes and Angells were docked in High Cliff on Lake
Winnebago and a tornado passed over us hitting near Sherwood. In a hour
the main event was over though little storms rumbled over until
midnight.
5/21/08 - Dawn broke late over an
eastern cloud bank. Remnants of last night's squalls? When I tried to
raise anchor at 8am I found I'd hooked something on the bottom. The
windlass wouldn't raise the anchor nor could I power it out without
chain pulling through the windlass. I reconnected the snubber harness
and did a power circle around the anchor. Luckily I found an angle where
it broke free. A couple of days ago a boat in that anchorage had to have
divers untangle his anchor. Must be a lot of junk on the bottom.
We traveled through lots of skinny water today, 8-8.5' was pretty
common. I strayed into a 5'6" area but didn't touch.
It was also a day for gusty winds. We were motor sailing and a gust
heeled AA over to the point that Buddy's cage slide off the seat
in the cabin onto the floor. Spilled his water and food. I set him back
up right away and gave him water. After we anchored I cleaned up the
food while Buddy let me know he wasn't happy with the way he'd been
treated.
We anchored about 6pm above Butler Island, north of Georgetown...
almost 70 statue miles. Long day!
5/22/08 - Headed out at 8am to catch the
flooding tide. We're traveling in a wooded area now. It's much prettier
and the large green eyed flies apparently don't live in the woods -
nice. We saw abandoned rice fields, many Osprey and their nests, herons
and other birds.
Traffic was light and we made Barefoot Landing about 1pm. Decided
to push on to Little River to shorten the run to Wrightsville Beach the
following day. Renee called Beth White and learned she'd found a clinic
that would remove my stitches Saturday morning... so, on to WB.
As we were waiting for the Barefoot Landing swing bridge to open the
wind pushed Ariel to the east side of the channel where a hidden
rock pile snagged her on a falling tide. We sent Squander ahead
while I tried to tow them off. No joy. Had to call TowBoat/US. They
quickly responded and freed Ariel. I'd found that same pile in
2005, fortunately on a rising tide.
When we caught up with Squander at the Little River inlet we found
that a dredging operation in progress had turned the inlet into a
junkyard of buoys, barges. Adrian had found a nice spot among the gear
but there wasn't room for AA and Ariel. Miles elected to
return 4 miles to a marina slip while I crossed the ICW to another
anchor in skinny water (7' at low tide).
After reading my Yanmar owner's manual and the service manual I'd
recently purchased I called Brad Abbott to see if he could shed any
light on our apparent large increase in diesel consumption. Up until
about 60 hours ago we could literally fuel based on a gallon per hour.
Our last three fuel fills indicate AA is burning 1.7-1.8 gallons
per hour. Ouch!
5/23/08 - Boat traffic woke me at 6am,
it was the sportfishers heading out to catch the big ones sleeping. It's
not widely known outside the boat community, but sport fishing boats
come with a 5' high wake. It's an attitude. By 7:15 everything had been
put back in place in the cabin and the anchor was up. We headed for the
Sunset Beach Pontoon bridge and an 8am opening of this unique floating
bridge.
I talked to Ruth, she's made travel arrangements to rejoin the boat
in Norfolk, VA June 3rd. Not a lot of places along the way she can fly
into.
I ran all day alone at about 300 rpm lower than the past couple of
weeks - testing to see what it does for fuel consumption. Brad called
after talking to Mack Boring, the Yanmar distributor. They agree the
next steps are haul the boat, clean and paint the bottom, re-pitch the
prop, and then have a mechanic adjust the valves and check over the
engine. That will all happen early June in Deltaville.
Even with the lower rpm I arrived only 12 minutes behind Ariel
and Squander. I waited for Miles to get anchored and dropped the
hook next to them. Beth and George came to Ariel for cocktails -
we had a great evening catching up with each others' travels since last
fall. By dusk everyone was ready to crash.
5/24/08 - Overcast this morning and
cooler, light sprinkles introduced the day. George and Beth took me to a
clinic to have my 22 stitches removed. It went smoothly, painlessly and
quickly. Nasty scar, but it will recede during the next 12 months and
it's hidden behind my ear (an advantage of big ears). It is sure nice
not to have the stitches and dressing behind my ear... now if I can just
get rid of the squint in my right eye - feels like a face lift gone
wrong.
Miles says there was a big locals party in the harbor last night,
complete with loud music, arguments, boats adrift with people rowing
dinghies after them - I blissfully slept through it all.
Maeve and Bradd called relating that they had the kids all squared
away and had arrived in St Augustine after a mix on ICW and ocean
travel. We're hoping to get together around Norfolk when Ruth gets back.
It will be great to see them again.
Cool and damp most of the day. One positive, it held down the boat
traffic until the sky cleared about 5pm. With the clearing came some
warmth and the harbor came alive with jet skis and powerboats. At 7 we
formed a 3 dinghy convoy and went to a yacht club party as Beth's
guests. First we met her father and toured his beautiful 4th floor condo
overlooking the harbor - breathtaking! After meeting her father I can
see where Beth gets her endearing sharing personality. Very nice people.
It was a enjoyable evening with great food.
After dinner we headed back to the boats, 10:30, way past sundown and
my normal bedtime (I've become solar powered, up at sunrise and to bed
at dark).
5/25/08 - The front has passed, the sun
rose against a sapphire sky unmarred by clouds. It's warmer and the
water lice (jet skis) were swarming by 9am... lucky us. Buddy was going
nuts, he thought that every boat that passed was coming to see him and
called out a welcome (can you say parrot on the barbeque?).
With all the boat traffic the Coasties were out in force. Let's see,
8 people, 4 life jackets... do you plan on having a lottery if the boat
sinks? We have boats tearing through the anchorage at full throttle.
Listening to the VHF it became apparent there was at least one high
speed boat collision with critical injuries. I'm glad we chose to stay
off the ICW today. Tomorrow we plan an early start to get out of the
populated area before the masses hit the water.
Other than all the waves from a steady stream of passing powerboats
it was a quiet day on AA. Buddy spent the day in the cockpit while I
read and did minor boat cleaning - things like the stains from our
totally rusted anchor chain. Buddy and I watched the young chicks vying
for the honor of having the least amount of fabric on, bringing comments
from Buddy like aaawwwww or his wolf whistle. Ruth and the Vet thing
Buddy is a female... I'm not so sure.
5/26/08 - The parade of sportfishermen
heading out rocked me awake at 5:30am. I got up and assembled breakfast
- I guess that what you call preparing a bowl of raisin brand and a cup
of coffee. Voices outside the boat raised my curiosity - I hadn't heard
a boat approach. When I first entered the cockpit I didn't see anyone,
then I heard a splash. In the early light of dawn a group of swimmers
was crossing the harbor. There were about a dozen in all, guys and gals,
on a couple mile swim. These were serious swimmers, they did a
continuous crawl across and back with an occasional "Are you okay?",
"We're almost there."
We hoisted anchor at 7:30 and headed for the Wrightsville Beach
bridge, clearing it by 8:05am. An hour later we were through the Figure
Eight Island swing bridge. The next bridge was Surf City, over 3 hours
away. Ariel made a run for it, I held back to 2800 rpm, still
testing fuel consumption. We had a short run planned for the day so
Adrian elected to run slower with me.
It became apparent Ariel could make the bridge while we'd have
a 45 minute wait so we shut down our engines and sailed to the bridge -
can you say no fuel burned? Recreation vessel traffic was heavy, but no
sportfishermen so it was easily handled. After the bridge we motor
sailed to within a couple of miles of our destination. By 3 we were
anchored in Mile Hammock at the southern edge of Camp Lejeune. Ariel
had arrived about an hour earlier and was already snuggled in.
The new battery banks I installed in Ft. Pierce are working great. I
now have enough power to make coffee in the morning without starting the
engine. With the new voltage regulator the bank is fully recharged by
noon. Even at anchor the wind generator and solar recharge the batteries
during the day. Finally! Now to get to Deltaville and get the rest of
the boat restored.
5/27/08 - My auto-wakeup seems to have
reset itself to 5am. After 30 minutes of "stretching" I crawled out of
the sack at 5:30, made coffee and watched the sun chase the morning
twilight out of the harbor. It's sunny and about 67 degrees. Another day
in the ditch.
I noted 3 other Loopers in the anchorage, Steel 'n Time,
Sue Sea Q and a third boat, Restless Wind, Paul & Emy Struve
from Green Bay, WI. The had started the loop rout last September and we
bound back to Marinette.
I hoisted anchor at 6:50 for the 7:30 Onslow Beach (Camp Lejeune)
bridge. Ariel and Squanderer were scheduled to leave at 8.
I figured they'd push hard and pass me about as I got into Beaufort (Bo-fert)
NC. Enroute I passed on of the longest continuous tows I've seen. The
tug Island Outlook had a dredge, several barges and long lengths
of dredging pipe in tow - about 1/4 mile of stuff. They used several
smaller pushboats to herd the mess through a bridge as I trailed behind.
Passing it turned out to be a trick.
Beaufort's commercial harbor was busy as I entered. For a short time
it was partially blocked by a bulk tanker that was being warped by two
tugs while another tanker was moored to the other side of the ICW. Add
to that a USCG tug and barge and you have a real dance going on.
The other two boats arrived about 1/2 hour after I anchored in
Beaufort - the harbor was crowded, a lot of space taken up by empty
mooring balls. Ariel had arranged for a mooring, Squander
searched and found a marginal spot like mine along the edge of the
waterway. Fortunately the isn't heavy barge traffic through the harbor.
I think we'll have to start skipping our Beaufort, NC, stops and pick
another anchorage either north or south of the city. I'm glad we got to
see it the number of times we have.
I called the dermatologist this afternoon to learn what the biopsy
revealed at the edges of the surgery. Green light! All checked out
negative. Now I just need to move to a mine and live in the dark to
avoid more sun exposure. Can you say zinc paste wrap?
We had dinner at Aqua, a nice restaurant with a different menu -
excellent. Then off to a funky wine bar where the others shared wine
while I listened to local musicians jamming folk music. Very nice. Some
real talent in the room.
5/28/08 - Anchor up at 7:30am. Keel on
the bottom 7:45am. Given that AA is the shallowest draft of the
three it was pretty apparent we were not going out Galiants Channel, the
shortest route. Because I had crept aground I easily backed away and
checked for other paths, not finding one the deeper boats could use.
We backtracked and went through the commercial harbor, Morehead City,
where we connected with the ICW. The harbor was the busiest I've seen it
with two tankers and a bulk carrier warped to piers.
The weatherman called for showers, about mid-morning the sky clouded
and darkened. We're pushing into another mild cold front - 50's &
60's at night, low 70's during the day - jacket weather with the wind
and dampness. AA motor sailed about half the trip. We met a tow
and barge at the entrance to Core Creek... talked briefly and agreed to
a one whistle pass (port to port). The tug moved to his side of the
channel to ensure I'd have enough water to get by.
By noon we were in Oriental without getting rained on. I anchored,
then realized the free dock was open so I gave my spot to Ariel
and slid into the town dock. Slid being the operative word, I grounded
in the slip. Tied her up anyway as Oriental gets wind tides rather than
lunar. Ariel quickly anchored, Squander was left with a
space in the extreme outer portion of the small harbor. The bottom there
proved to be scoured, forcing Adrian and Jan to put out two anchors,
each anchor hanging on by a fingernail, to prevent dragging.
Showers arrived around 2:30 lightly wetting the streets and boats -
just enough to keep everyone in their cabins. Later it rained in earnest
and the temperature started falling further.
5/29/08 - Low of 56 last night. My
southernized blood said that was bloody cold. Tried to start the furnace
but it faulted out. That happens when it isn't used for a long time, the
diesel drains back out of the fuel line and the unit has to cycle more
times than the controller allows to re-prime the system. An hour with
the system will get it up, I think it's time.
I walked around Oriental searching for engine oil, finally settle on
another brand so I'd have a couple of quarts on hand if I need to add
some. Oil in hand I stopped at the seafood shop for fresh scallops and
shrimp. Next I moved the boat to the fuel dock, destroying the port bow
light in a gust of wind when the bow line pulled the boat into a piling... a hazard of
single handling a 43' boat around piers. Finally, all my chores done, I was on my
way by 10am. Ariel and Squander left at 8am so I was a couple of
hours behind them.
The Pamlico Sound had a steep chop right on the nose. Pounded
through that for a couple of hours. Then the ICW took a bend and I got
to motor sail for a couple of hours. I arrived in Belhaven around 3:30
after a 42 mile run in strong winds. The anchorage was large and
virtually empty. The hook set on my first try.
When I arrive the three crew toured Belhaven. It's maybe 1/4 the size
of New London. By the time we got back to the harbor it was supper time.
We ate at the marina's restaurant. David and Laura of Top Cat
joined us. Now that we have I don't think the group would do it
again.
Talked to Ruth before bed... she was looking for a place to sleep for
the night and was trying to reach her brother Pat. She'd take a hotel
the night before - no more house in Appleton and no flights to Norfolk
until Tuesday. She's become a homeless person.
5/30/08 - A thin golden red crescent
over the trees to the east heralded another beautiful day in North
Carolina. Yesterday's winds were gone, having died after providing us
with a bouncy dinghy ride home last night. Two more days and we should
be done doing the ditch.
A 7:30 start by AA dragged the other boats off their hooks.
Actually I like to get about a half hour start on them so I'm not
holding them back all day. I'd rather be the fox than the turtle. As it
was they were 10 minutes behind and passed me in the Alligator-Pungo
Canal.
It was a 3 tow day... nice to see the commercial traffic on the ICW.
Helps keep it from being a repeat of the Wolf and Fox Rivers. A sport?
fisherman named Instinct came roaring down the A-P Canal during the day
throwing a large wake at every boat he passed... throttle on 30, brain
at zero. Outa my way or outa my canal! I could hear boats warning others
on channel 16 all the way up the canal. Some folks just don't get it
until they do real damage - if then. They think no wake is an Irish
tragedy.
By 11 we were at the anchorage we'd targeted at the north end of the
Alligator-Pungo canal. We were making great time so we elected to
continue past the Alligator River bridge. That came up too early so we
sailed across the Albemarle sound and anchored along the ICW near Goose
Pond.
Talked to Ruth today, she'd roomed with brother Pat last night. She's
looking forward to the weekend and visits to our Menasha Marina boating
friends. All her appointments are done and she's making a round of our
buddies.
Wind is whistling through the rigging, Our meter says 10 knots,
sounds and feels like more. The meter is on the list of things to fix,
it reads low and mis-indicates direction. I'm shortly going to add the
sizzle of a nice mess of fresh scallops being sautéed on the stove,
yyyum!
5/31/08 - Had a tow come by early last
night - a tug with a loaded barge on its hip. It slide by our anchorage
like a ghost. Later (earlier?), at 2 am I woke with an awareness of a
large idling engine. I recognized the throaty sound of a towboat idling
toward us from the north as its spotlight flooded the cabin. I called on
channel 13 and advised him that 4 boats were anchored outside the
channel on his port side. The captain of Irish Moran quickly
acknowledged he had us all accounted for, relating he'd be idling next
to us until another tow arrived and they'd transferred goods from tow to
tow. The second tow arrived from the south in about 15 minutes. The two
captains, communicating on 68, glided alongside each other facing
opposite directions. The barges coupled without a sound and a few boxes
were passed before both continued to their destinations. It felt like
I'd watched prehistoric beasts mate in the dark. The crews of the other
boats slept through it all.
Overcast dawn, looks like showers today. SkyMate indicated that
Sampatecho was off Wrightsville Beach headed north. With the kids
out of crew school and on mega-yachts they can head north... they're
making time now!
We sailed and motor-sailed most of the day with little incident. The
only excitement was a ferry crossing the ICW between Ariel and
Squander. After we passed Pungo Ferry Landing we came to a series of
bridges with a tight schedule all the way to Norfolk. The first was
scheduled on the hour - we made it nicely. Ariel realized that
the next bridge was unscheduled so we powered up to make it so we'd be
timed for the next one. They were concerned that AA would delay
the opening if the bridge waited for me so I dropped back. Even dropping
back I almost made it. The first two boats backed up a lot of traffic,
after it cleared the bridge opened again for me... 15 minutes after the
hour. I missed the next bridge by 15 minutes, suddenly realizing that
there was a lock after the bridge and I was running single-handed. Not a
good plan with a 43' boat and a lock. Talked to Miles and he said the
lock was a piece of cake, I'd single-hand it easily. Then Murphy stepped
in.
A "red flag" tow called. The red flag meant he was carrying flammable
liquid and had priority over other vessels, and that he could not enter
a lock with another vessel. That blew the 2pm locking and created a
traffic jam. The dock space above the lock immediately filled. I held in
place in the channel, entering a special second locking with two
sportfishermen and two runabouts. As I was entering the larger sportfish
got crossways in the dock... twin screw, twice as many ways to screw up
I guess. I pulled up short and got a line over a bollard, secured for
the locking.
The lock delay caused an issue at the next bridge. The lock mistress
noted the bridge had a 10 minute window for opening and she'd call ahead
for me. I arrived 3 minutes after the hour and the bridge opened for me
and two pissed sportfishermen - they'd hit full throttle to get to the
bridge earlier.
The delays stacked up and I missed locking with Ariel and
Squander so I anchored below the Deep Creek Lock at the north end of
the Dismal. Nice little spot, but I'd been hoping to get above the lock
and get some provisions at Deep Creek.
Just as I was getting settled in Robert called, asking if I'd like
the 3:30 locking. They have enough water this year for their normal
schedule and he'd lock me up... kewl! Anchor up, locked and docked,
rafted off Squander.
Looking back it was a busy day.
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