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7/16/09 - We woke to a light overcast
with 10 knot winds from the west; ideal for our 13 mile sail to
Scituate. At 9am we were on our way.
It was a nice sail with the boat moving at 5-1/2 to 6-1/2 knots
over the bottom. Twenty minutes from Scituate a 25+ knot wind hit us
like a fist, overwhelming the autopilot and rounding the boat up. We
quickly reduced sail area and regained our course... now traveling at
7-1/2 to 9-1/2 knots over ground. Very kewl!
Picking up the mooring in Scituate wasn't as cool. We got one line
first pass, getting the second one aboard and cleated was like fighting
a sea serpent as the boat danced around the mooring in the gusts. Great
timing, as I finished up on the foredeck it started to sprinkle.
I started the hardest part of writing today; submitting to
editors. I'll be doing a lot of that over the next few weeks as I try to
find homes for my work.
Kenny G picked us up for an evening in his newly finished home
overlooking the ocean. What a fantastic evening... he's a renaissance
man in every sense of the word.
7/17/09 - A nice sunny morning with
no wind. What a difference a day makes. Ariel headed to Boston to
catch a plane home to WI. We decided to hang around in Scituate another
day.
We'd been trying to get a pump-out for 4 days... no one would
respond or they'd reply they were too busy. Ruth noticed that the air
freshener was loosing the battle with something evil and foul so she opened the
hatch over the holding tank. The poor thing looked like a balloon; the
seals were being taxed beyond their ability. The tank was about ready to
empty itself. Three more emergency appeals to the dispatcher and relief
finally arrived in the form of a pump-out boat. Then we sanitized the
bilges.
I finally got tired of the mess the lifejackets and running lights
made in the dinghy, so I sewed a storage bag today that snaps under the
seat. Finally - should have done it 4 years ago.
Ruth was saddened by an e-mail last night advising her that
business demands had caused Bill & Jill to cancel their August visit
with us. She'd been looking forward to some quality time with Jill for a
year; maybe this coming winter.
7/18/09 - It poured last night,
buckets of rain washed down the boat. The boat needed it as my barber
did my hair last night and it blew all over the place.
We left Scituate a little after 9am; sailing south. Light winds, 5
- 8 knots bore us south. As the day progressed so did the winds. Soon we
had 24 knots apparent and were smoking south. Not exactly where we
wanted to go, but we were getting there fast. Actually, we ended up on
the north side of Cape Cod about 5 miles from the canal 2 hours before
the tide was in our favor. We hit the canal at 5pm, tide current turned
at 7... screw it, we attacked the canal arriving in Onset at 6:30. Kewl!
What a phenomenal day of sailing! Our weatherman, now in Boston,
had predicted that the wind would be against us... fickle wind, it was
our ally. Eight hours of great sailing! Whoopee!
The Toews' catamaran Los Gatoews was on a mooring
indicating that they are traveling on land at the moment. This is the
third time in the past month we've passed in the night.
We had just finished dinner in the cabin when Ruth went to the
cockpit to tidy it up. She called for me to grab the camera and come up.
As I climbed the companionway steps I saw that we were in the center of
a large circle of intense red light. Every home around the harbor had
one or more red flares burning, all at the same height, around the
entire rim of the harbor. We've never seen anything like this before...
awesome.
7/19/09 - Another beau...., yah, you
know. Actually after last night's display the sunrise was almost
underwhelming. By 9:30am we were out of the harbor and heading west in
Buzzards Bay (no Buzzards; what early settlers thought were Buzzards
proved to be Osprey - hey, they were settlers, not birders).
The wind was right on our nose but we decided to sail anyway as it
was blowing 15 knots. We had a very nice ride to Cuttyhunk, arriving at
3pm and anchoring in the outer harbor by Copicut Neck. Got to love these
names; what happened to normal names like Neenah, Menasha and Pulaski?
We went into town, dropped off a dozen books and picked up two.
Also bought a smoked bluefish pate'... delicious! Maeve, you need a
smoker!
7/20/09 - A little fog over the ocean
and Buzzards bay, but nice and sunny at Cuttyhunk. Amy and Lofton come
to Newport tomorrow afternoon so that is our destination for today.
We motor sailed to Dutch Island, staged for Newport tomorrow.
Ruthie went glassing while I did a nasty little repair to the clew of
our mainsail. Nasty because it took 2 hours to sew a leather wear patch
to the leach at the clew. Better to do it now than tear the clew out.
Ruth found a rare glass bottle stopper. Really kewl!
7/21/09 - Woke to light rain;
actually it was the middle of the night and Ruth was up closing ports.
Woke again to light rain; looks like a wet one today.
Rained until mid-afternoon. We moved to a mooring in Newport
Harbor so Amy & Lofton could meet us there. Ruth and I cleaned house,
Ruth washed her hair and doctored her fat lip. Yup, fat lip... she
forgot Buddy is a wild animal last night and got bit on the lip - just
enough to draw blood and make it swell (who needs collagen injections?)
Buddy is now looking for a new best bud.
Amy and Lofton came tonight on the water taxi. The rain held
off just long enough to get them aboard. Ruth had a hot spaghetti dinner
waiting for their arrival. Great to see them again.
7/22/09 - While it rained almost all
night the clouds parted enough for the sun to peek out. Heard noises in
the galley... rats? Peered out to find Amy and Lofton making breakfast
(hot dogs are now the alternative breakfast sausages?)
We wandered around Newport until after lunch time. Stopped in and
provisioned before catching the trolley to the harbor - not. Ended up
about 6 blocks north of the harbor. Walked to the water taxi for the
ride to AA. Last night's spaghetti sauce became meatball
sandwiches for lunch - mmmm.
Patrick and I had been texting so he knew we were in the harbor.
He got some open time so stopped by the say hi. Great to see him - boat
life seems to work for him.
7/23/09 - Woke at 7am to overcast
skies. Lofton was already up and talking to Buddy. He and I slipped our
mooring and headed to Block Island. As we exited Narragansett Bay we hit
a wall of fog - visibility ranged from 100 yards to 1/4 mile all the way
to Block Island.
We anchored in the NE corner of Great Salt Pond just as it started
to drizzle. Whoopee! Looks like guest weather today and tomorrow before
we see some sunshine.
We backed down on our anchor hard as they were forecasting 25-30
knots around midnight.
Then we headed toward town in the dinghy, stopping to buy dinner
from Aldo the boat-side vender. The boater behind us noted the forecast
had changed and a gale was expected late at night.
We again headed to town, turning back when it started to sprinkle.
Lofton and I went for a boat ride in light rain as he was dying to go
fast... and we did.
7/24/09 - At 11:30pm Ruth & I awoke
to the sound of our wind generator free wheeling and the wind making our
rigging sing. We quickly got up and readied the boat to run if our
anchor pulled out. (see sidebar for an account of our evening).
We are staying in Block Island today to let the sound settle down
before heading east. The sun is shining but the seas are rolling. We'll
make it a long day tomorrow going 55 miles to Falmouth.
We spent the afternoon on the beach with Lofton. He got to see a
flounder being caught - kind of intrigued by the fact both it's eyes
were on one side of it's body.
7/25/09 - T-storms rumbled through
around midnight; no surprise there. Fortunately there wasn't a lot of
wind with it. By 7am we had the anchor up and were underway for
Falmouth. Speaking of the anchor, it had dug so deep we had to drive
over it to break it out of the clay. I swear I saw a Chinese pigtail
fall off it as it broke the surface.
We motored almost all the way to Cuttyhunk where we unfurled the
headsail to steady the boat's motion. Just past Cuttyhunk we hit a wall
of fog... 1/8th mile visibility all the way to Falmouth; of course, this
is the stretch with all the ferry and boat traffic. At one point I was
tracking 13 targets in a 3 mile range, and that was the ones that showed
up on radar.
We took a slip in Falmouth so Tom could join us in the evening
after a flight to and drive from Providence. Amy and Lofton headed to
the beach with their neighbor Sue (her folks have a summer home here);
Ruth and I chilled out.
Tom joined Amy and Lofton at the beach, returning after supper
with their friends. Ruth and I had already hit the sack... old folks.
7/26/09 - Foggy in the morning, we
did a little provisioning for Tom's visit. Then I went to the laundry
with Ruth and Amy while Tom and Lofton went to the beach to visit Sue
and kids.
We had great slip mates on both sides of us. Enjoyed visiting with
them in the afternoon and evening.
Late in the afternoon Tom headed to Boston for meetings Monday
while the rest of our crew hung out at the marina.
7/27/09 - Overcast in the morning
gave way to sunny haze (it could only happen in New England) the rest of
the day. Amy and Lofton went to the beach while Ruth and I read. I took
time to do apply another coat of varnish to the bow seat and flag staff
as they were showing signs of dulling; salt and sun sure take their
toll.
We cast off our starboard friends and their 48' Sabre sailboat.
What a beauty! A little later a 38' Catalina took their place. Falmouth
seems to be the place to provision and take on water.
We joined Amy, Tom, Lofton and Joe for dinner at Bob and Fran's
(Sue's folks). What a great time!
7/28/09 - Gray sky at breakfast. By
11am we had 8 folks aboard and were headed for Martha's Vineyard. We
have a nice leisurely sail past Vineyard Haven, then the wind died and
we had to motor. Such is life.
We took a mooring in Edgartown and the crowd went to the beach
while Ruth and I stayed aboard and relaxed... nice! Very interesting day
with 4 kids less than 7 years old aboard. I'm thinking the human species
should eat their young. Wow, glad I a grand and not a young parent.
Our Falmouth guests took a ferry home while we went out to dinner
with Tom, Amy, Lofton and Joe.
7/29/09 - Foggy, misty morning. How
does the weather know when we have guests aboard?
We hung around Edgartown until 11am, then sailed (yes, we actually
sailed) back to Falmouth. Joe was playing his guitar on the foredeck
while Tom and Lofton lounged next to him. It was neat to see and to
listen to the music drift back to the cockpit.
We went to Sue's folks for a pizza dinner. Great time... everyone
acting silly and enjoying each other's antics.
7/30/09 - A slightly lighter shade of
gray this morning. Joe swears he saw some sun at dawn.
Joe headed out around 9:30a. Amy and family headed to a Laundromat
so they could pack for the trip home. The boat seemed abandoned... Buddy
was searching everywhere for Lofton and the kids. Ruth was busy
re-organizing the boat in preparation for heading north again.
When the kids (kids?) left we headed for Woods Hole in fog,
passing through to Buzzards Bay and sunshine. We sailed to Onset so
quickly we decided to run the Cape Cod Canal, anchoring off Plymouth for
the night. We've never anchored on the ocean side of the sand spit here
but the weather forecast for the next 3 days indicated it would be okay.
Time will tell.
While we were eating supper we heard our first loon calls of this
trip. Their haunting call welcomed us north again.
7/31/09 - Sunny beautiful day
with light southerly winds. Where are our guests? I hoisted anchor
around 7:15am and headed north for the day while Ruthie grabbed a couple
more Z's while I set course motor-sailing toward Portsmouth, NH; a long
day's run.
By noon our beautiful day had deteriorated to drizzle with heavier
stuff on the way. I diverted to Gloucester where we anchored in pouring
rain. I heated a couple of cans of chili for lunch - it fit the weather
perfectly.
About 1-1/2 hours later the squall line blew through with 30 knot
gusts and sheets of rain. Luckily an intense cell passed each side of
us, sparing us from the highest winds. The storm passed quickly, less
than half an hour and the winds were down to 10 - 12 knots with steady
rain. Shouldn't be any salt left on the boat after this drenching.
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It's hard to capture with a camera the effect of hundreds of red
flares rimming a harbor. To the human eye it was stunning.

Life jacket bag finally organizes our dinghy

100+ foot ketch dwarfed AA at Cuttyhunk (actually dwarfed
everyone).
Yawls and Ketches
No, yawls are not twin mast boats below the Mason-Dixon line. Both
designs feature two masts. On a yawl the aft mast is behind the helm
station and is typically much shorter than the forward mast. On a ketch
the aft mast is ahead of the helm station (as picture above) and the aft
mast height is relatively closer to that of the forward mast. Why two
masts? To help reduce the size of the sails for handling. Why the
different mast locations? Because they could.

Cuttyhunk's only link to the mainland

12 Meter Heritage was WI based for several years - saw her on
Green Bay

Patrick stopped by with their tender - 1200 hp

The ultimate tender adds another dimension - altitude
Another sleepless night...
We quickly got up and readied the boat to run if our
anchor pulled out.
For the next 4 hours we listened to panicked calls
"Mayday; help-help-help me; we're sinking; we pulled our mooring out;
help us, we're dragging." The emergency resources at Block Island were
stretched to the breaking point. Many of the emergencies should have
never occurred, the skipper should have been able to handle the
situation and the radio calls should have reflected the actual urgency
of the events transpiring. I'm betting at least 5 couples will be RV
shopping in the near future. Too bad, a little training would have gone
a long way.
Our instruments were all on and Ruth had the engine
running in neutral; we had our escape route planned should we break
loose or have boats break loose above us (I'd purposely anchored in a
spot with only two boats above us).
We recorded sustained winds in the low 30 knot range
with gusts to 42 knots (48 mph) accompanied by heavy rain. (We later
learned the marina had clocked 56 mph winds.)
All over the anchorage and mooring field we could see
red & green running lights on as boats powered up as they broke free.
Interestingly as many boats had their moorings fail as had anchors break
free. Notable because many boaters take a mooring feeling they are more
secure than if they anchored.
Nights like this remind me how lucky I am to have
Ruth as my Admiral.

Joe's going to be smokin' tonight

Joe and Lofton

Having fun yet? Oh yah!

Accompanied by the wind and ocean

Our resident musician unplugged

Sue and Ruth enjoying the sail to Martha's Vineyard. Look closely and
you'll see Ryan's hands on the wheel in front of Ruth.

Sue's parents (great company) with Claire
Gloucester, MS
The home port of the fishing vessel Andrea Gail in the movie
Perfect Storm. The movie was based on the loss of the Andrea Gail
with 6 hands on board October 3, 1991. Gloucester is still the home port
for a fleet of working boats.
Prior to our last visit we anchored near the entrance to the Cape Ann
Canal, a short cut not all that sailboat friendly. The harbormaster came
by and guided us to the anchorage in the inner harbor with the
suggestion we use it.
The anchorage is on the edge of the working harbor. We have an
excellent maritime museum on our port side and a yard with a marine
railroad on our starboard. Tall ships are being restored in both
locations.
Though much smaller than it was in '91, the fishing fleet is still
constantly flowing in and out of the port. Near the north end of the
harbor stands a large freezer plant and a commercial fish market, a
reminder that the hardy folks here still challenge the ocean for a
living.

Vessel in yard reflects Gloucester heritage
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