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7/16/10 - AA was underway by
7:20am under gray skies and a light SW wind. We motor sailed 35 nm to
Boothbay Harbor, arriving at 12:30 after getting lost once and having to
backtrack (we'd actually gone by Boothbay. It's easy to do with all the
fingers of water that make up the coast here.
It was wildlife day, we saw 5 Minke whales and 7 seals along with
our assorted duck, loons and gulls. One of the whales was pretty good
sized (I wouldn't want to have tangled with any of them).
At Boothbay we fueled and picked up a mooring in front of Ariel.
Then we went into town and provisioned for our run to Nova Scotia. We
have two stops before we get there but neither is a good place to
provision.
Our obligatory fog moved in at 4pm, I'd sure missed it. Ruth and I
played cards with me winning the first three games and Ruth the second
three. Took her a little while to warm up.
7/17/10 - Bright and sunny this
morning. We were moving by 7:15 in light haze, about 3 mile visibility.
Ariel had left about 30 minutes earlier.
We motor sailed the first several hours. Our Autohelm woke up with
us and behaved itself most of the trip - surprise. The last 1-1/2 hour
we sailed toward Pulpit Harbor while I grilled cheese burgers for lunch.
Today we saw two whales and 1 seal along with the sea birds. Kind
of a quiet day. Haze hung along the shoreline, giving the illusion that
the land was floating above the sea. Very pretty!
At Pulpit we anchored in 30 feet of water, expecting to loose 10'
and gain 1 in the next 12 hours. Then we settled into relax mode while
we waited for our lobsterman. He showed up about 4:30pm. Ruth and I took
the dinghy over to buy 6 lobster. He said he'd drop them off a little
later and he did, 15 lbs of lobster for $65.00. Miles and Laureen came
over for a lobsta fest dinner... it was great! Ruth steamed them to
perfection!
7/18/10 - What a gorgeous morning! I
had the anchor up by 6:45, headed out of Pulpit Harbor. We rounded the
north end of the island enroute for the Deer Island Thoroghfare and on
through Casco Passage to Mt Desert's Northeast Harbor.
We saw a small whale and a couple of seals. Not a lot of sea
wildlife as it was lobster float day and we had to keep a close watch
for them. Coming out of Stonington our speed dropped to 4 knots and the
rudder became hard to turn. The current was pulling us toward a rocky
shoal so I kept the power on and held our heading until we got to open
water. Then I slowed and shifted to neutral. Ruth watched behind us,
"There's a float she called. There's another... and another." We'd
picked up three traps without seeing any of them - that's with two of us
on watch!
Miles must have snagged at least three, clearing them quickly by
turning and backing down. He has cutters on his prop shaft that are
designed to shear lines that try to tangle the prop. That noted, coming
into Northeast Harbor he commented it felt like they had line wrapped on
the prop shaft; I think we could be in same situation. While we strive
to avoid all floats, the killers are the pots with a float and toggle
both on the surface connected by line. I think you have a 50%
probability of snagging those suckers if you get within 30' of them.
A diver confirmed that Miles had acquired a float and some line.
It was quickly cleared. I missed the diver so we may still have a
souvenir of Maine.
7/19/10 - The barometer crept up a
little last night presenting us with a clear blue sky this morning. We
read part of the morning before going into town to pick up two packages
from Cruising Solutions. Found the post office closed from 11:30am to
1:30pm so we walked town and explored shops. Cute little town but you
can see where several stores have burned down over the years and not
been replaced. They have done a nice job of landscaping the areas that
were abandoned.
At 1:30 we got one of the packages, the first one shipped is the
one that hasn't arrived yet. We'll have to wait and see if it comes
tomorrow.
By two it was cloudy and sprinkling occasionally.
7/20/10 - The second package didn't
arrive today either. We talked to Bradd and he said tell the Post Office
to send it back if it ever arrives (it passed through the clearing
center one day away 4 days ago).
The weather forecast said this was the day to go to Nova Scotia so
we headed out a little after 10am for Shelburne, 158nm away. The wind
was light and variable so we motored all day and all night. Dense fog
came and went about 3 times.
Enroute we had something playing under us part of the trip. Our
depth sounder recorded bottom at about 560 feet; then something would be
under us rising from 80' to 6' (that's only 6" below our keel) before
diving back to 30'. This went on for over and hour. Whale? Or just a
school of fish?
Ruth and I went on 3 hour watches for the night. As the sun set
and we approached Cape Sable the temperatures started dropping - air and
water. Water got down to 41 degrees F while you could see your breath.
The fog closed in to about 100' visibility... we were flying by radar.
7/21/10 - Early morning watches suck
when its wet and foggy. It's really disorienting to get up and stagger
into a world with no visual reference. By the end of your watch there
are lots of things to see; the problem is none of them are real. Radar
plotted a lot more boats than I would have expected - mainly commercial
fishing boats searching for fish to net.
I woke at 7am to a beautiful day. Ruth had brought us safely
through the last of the fog and into a stellar clear morning. Wow, what
a difference a watch can make.
By noon we were in Shelburne, eating Ruth's porridge and waiting
to clear customs. Things went smooth (hey, Canada knows how to do it)
and after refueling we moved out to anchor, discovering that the rapid
drop in temperature compromised our anchor windlass control, sucking
moisture into it and preventing it from releasing chain under power. I
dried it in the sun and it seemed to recover. Better get a spare on
hand.
Fish farming is big business in this town of about 2,000. We passed about a dozen large
floating operations. They raise salmon and trout for market.
The crews of Ariel and Another Adventure had dinner
on Sampatecho. It was nice to catch up with Bradd & Maeve again.
7/22/10 - A little wind and lots of rain last night. The strong storm they
were forecasting passed north of us trailing the little garbage that we
got. Early morning overcast cleared to blue skies.
We're hoping to get WiFi today through the Shelburne Harbor Yacht
Club. We have a 2 bar signal on our boosted antenna in our anchorage.
Ruth had a migraine headache and needed to be in bed, alone, so I
went into town with the other two crews. While they toured town I bought
a museum pass and explored the dory museum, a shipyard, the county
museum and a ship fleet owner's home. It's interesting to see the
artifacts that have survived from the late 1700's when the Loyalists
settled here to fish and build ships. My favorite was a fire pumper
built in London in the 1700's. It was all manual and looked like Freddy
Flintstone built it.
One of Shelburne's attractions is that they never had a major
waterfront fire so the harbor looks much like it did 200 years ago -
most of the original frame buildings are still standing.
7/23/10 - Got up to a toasty warm
boat; the furnace kicked in automatically last night. Actually it's the
second day we've had heat on at night. It's definitely cool up here;
especially when the wind is off the ocean.
The water temperature in Shelburne is 75F, pretty nice thanks to
being 7 miles inland and having a river feed the harbor. The temperature
during the day yesterday bordered on hot.
We motored 29 miles to Port Mouton where we anchored off million
dollar beach, so named because it has sand dollars. It is one of the
very few beaches in Nova Scotia. We were surprised to have a dozen
vessels anchored off the beach as the day ended. There really aren't
that many boats up here. The water temp is 51F in the harbor, almost too
cold for our watermaker to work.
Enroute we blew an engine belt, it totally shredded. Fortunately
we carry three spares so we were back in service in about 3 minutes.
Ariel and Sampatecho stood by in the event it was more
serious than just the belt. Once we anchored I cleaned up the mess, belt
pieces all over the engine compartment.
We walked the beach; Ruth collected sand dollars. The water was so
cold you really couldn't wade more than ankle deep.
Great supper, mashed potatoes, kernel corn and baby back ribs...
umum!
7/24/10 - Anchor up at 8:30; wisps of
fog hung along shore while we had clear air. The wind teased us into
putting up sails, then died before we could really use them.
Our three vessels motored up the coast to LaHave River, an island
dotted bay. After finding a cozy little anchorage near Covey island we
took a dinghy ride to small beaches on nearby islands for a little
exploring.
We have seals, seabirds and Minke whales with us as we travel. The
shore is like a tamer version of Maine, lower with large rocks more
numerous than rock bluffs, lots of evergreens but looking more stunted.
Renee hosted dinner on Ariel. Spaghetti always goes over
big on a cool evening - soul food.
Ruth's feeling better after sleeping most of the last 3 days. She
seems to have caught some bug or at least one took over after our cold
damp rounding of Cape Sable. Good to have her back!
7/25/10 - We woke to fog, ranging
from 1/4 to 1/2 mile visibility. The wind teased us and Sampatecho
hoisted sails, then the wind closed the door... we motored 3 hours to
Lunenburg. A fog was dancing in the trees on the hilltops but never
settled on the sea. About half way on our trek it started drizzling and
turned to rain. Boy the diesel heater felt great in the cabin.
Lunenburg is a visual treat. It's obviously a heavy duty fishing
community; large fishing vessel, processing plants and a viable
waterfront.
7/26/10 - It's Monday already, where
did the weekend go? Okay, I had to check the calendar to figure out the
day. I've been trying to get a WiFi connection to no avail. I can
identify 61 signals here but non that are available to the public for
free or for fee.
Miles has lost engine generation. He suspects his alternator has
failed.
Finally, found WiFi in a coffee shop!
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We're not lost
Our update may get a little sporadic shortly as
we'll be dependant on WiFi hot spots once we get to Nova Scotia.
Our SkyMate position reports will be posted
daily as always.

Stonington, Me on the Deer Island Thoroghfare

Note the Stonington opera house

A golden looper returning from Mt Desert

The mountains (hills?) that mark Acadia National Park

Red light in the lighthouse marks the right hand side of the channel
near Mt Desert

Ruth shot one of her favorite work boat names as dusk settled over
the harbor

In the slack evening tide Poseidon first visited Ariel
then swung over to cozy up to Another Adventure

While I slept Ruth documented our first views of Nova Scotia. When
the fog lifted she saw this light on Salvage Rock.

Yup, light houses are typically what we see first, and second...

This one marked the entrance to Shelburne Harbor, our Canadian
landfall

Ariel cruising up the Shelburne harbor

This channel buoy directs traffic away from a fish farm

Just like in Wisconsin, working the farm attracts the gulls |